Yeah. I replaced it for an oil leak (there's a service bulletin for it). I used a cheap one from british pacific. It must have been faulty. I'm not knocking their supplier of this part, but I won't recommend it until I hear someone say they used it with no problems.

 

Well, it looks like I am going to get new oil pump gears an do a flush. Should I flush before or after? I am thinking after, because if the oil pump gears are worn, then they won't pump the flushing agent either.

 

Low oil pressure can also be worn bearings, but you have to start somewhere. I'd do the gears. While you've got the pump off, you can check the relief valve too, if you are brave. Search for a post. Someone talked about it recently on the D2 forum. I think they said it was a bear to put back together. you'll have to pull the oil pan too, so get the pickup tube seal and oil pan gasket, and the you can clean those out too.

 

I'm thinking you want to do the flush first, the purpose of the flush is to slowly disolve any sediment and crude. If you add the flushing agent and a new set of gears you may start dislodge some larger particales (more pressure) which could in theory block the oil filter causing it to by-pass particles into the new gear set. Which would not be good for the new gear set. When you had the oil sump off did you check the returns? what are you useing as an engine flushing agent?

 

I am using a BG Flush fit with an external filter. You hook an adapter up to the oil filter and it has a jarge external filter housing. That is what we use on the Audi 1.8l when they sludge up.

 

have you pulled the valve cover and checked the returns?

 

I have not yet. I don't see how that could cause no oil pressure on startup. I see how it could cause it to lose pressure while driving. Wouldn't the flush clean all that crap out?

 

you original post read: "Today I took it to work (I am a master Audi tech), and after 20 miles the oil light began to come on". So I concluded that the engine oil is not returning to the sump and running dry.
If you have no oil pressure at start up thats different all together.
Will flushing it one time clean all the crap out, i dont think so and if it does you better be prepared to drop the oil pan and clean the pick up. Everything that get broken free is going right into the pan not the filter.
I have de-slugged about a half dozen engine of all kinds, on everyone I pulled the valve covers so that I could see what was going on.
Its really an amazing sight one pushrod will start to spit them another and the rocker will do the same. Pretty soon the returns are working so well you dont new cardboard sheilds.
But I know nothing about this BG flush, I have only used kerosene/white fuel, worked great on the de-gunk tank engines so I have always used it, if it good enough for the united states military, it's good enough for me.

 

Well, me and the Rover spent a lot of time getting to know each other this weekend. I replaced the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil pump gears, and performing a high intensive BG engine flush. The intake gasket had fallen apart (which I guess is common) and was leaking pretty good. After I removed the valley pan and v/c gaskets, I was amazed at the level of sludge. The oil pump gears actually looked pretty good, but I replaced them anyway becasue I already had them. Upon startup and after the light turned out, I had 30 psi of pressure on the external filter housing on the flushing tool. As the fluid warmed up, the pressure began to drop, so that is when I revved the engine up to 2000 for 30 minutes. The pressure stayed in the low 30s, and never dropped below that. I know that this is lower than spec, but it is much better than the "less than 8" I had before. Hot idle with the flushing fluid was 10 psi. I then removed the pan again and cleaned out all the sludge, I also cleaned the pickup. I then put on a Mann filter and 20w-50 oil. We'll see how it goes!

I also replaced both front lock actuators with aftermarket ones. After moving it them around to get the right angle, they work great. I got 4 actuators (1-5 wire, 3-2 wire) for $30. I guess I have 2 more for the rear doors if those die.

 

I do not know what the oil psi is supposed to be but I do know these are not high oil psi engines.
Good work this weekend.