Yours takes 6.95, same as his. 6.3 in the sump and .65 in the filter. More if you use the larger K&N. Never fill anything above the fill line.

Look on page 143 of the manual. He is not thinking about the filter....

 

Read your manual, under capacites, oil and filter change is 6.1 quarets.
The engine sump will handle 6.9, only 6.1 drains out during an oil chaqnge.
The easy way to tell is do 6 quarts, start the engine,let it warm up for a minute or too, turn it off, let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and then see where the oil level is on your dip stick.

 

Actually I did read the manual but I couldn't remember at the time of the post. I was aware of the 0.65 for the filter. But the manual said (and Mike just said) that you should ALWAYS check the dip stick. I did that after about 6.5 quarts and warming it up and it was topped off. I will check the oil pressure Sunday asI just got a pressure gauge. Thanks toALL of you guys for the help. That's why I love this site.

 

Ok guys, after a long Sunday we have results. We inspected the oil pump: the gears are a little worn, the housing was in great shape. Overall pretty good. We inspected the sump. OMG, nasty. We did an engine flush before hand. Needless to say I'm going to replace the oil pickup. Someone used some type of "Make a seal" all over the place. They applied too much and it started breaking off in the pan and the pickup was VERY clogged. Also, I had put new oil in before the flush and it came out black and gunky. It will need it again later. I also found out what the ORIGINAL champion(black) plugs look like! I changed the plugs and wires. The timing chain was very loose so I will be replacing that. It just needs a little TLC, ok, a lot. Meanwhile, the wind was blowing very hard andmy basketball goal fell and poked a hole in the hood of my Trans-am and I'm really pissed off! Oh yeah, I ordered parts. I'll keep ya' posted. Thanks.

 

I used Berrymans B12 on the sump pan and the pick up tube screen and it made it all look like brand new. If your pick up screen & tube is really bad leave it to soak for a while, it should clean up good, no need to buy a new one. The oil pan needsno gasket, but you have to use that "sealer". I think the black RTV is recommended? And yes becareful not to put too much on as to where it oozes out into the pan. I used the grey sealer they use on Honda & Toyota's. It seems to set up harder.

 

UPDATE! Ok guys, we have success. Me and my buddy finally replaced the: Connecting rod bearings(very worn), Oil pressure switch, Oil pump gears(very worn), timing chain(old one had 1/2 inch of play!), Oil pickup(disgustingly filthy from last owners "overuse" of RTV), all gaskets along the way. We cranked it up, and after a short time of oil circulation the oil pres. light went off and has not returned. We drove it on local roads and then on the interstate. It is running great thus far. We did notice a small oil leak which after a couple drives has disapeared. Oil level is perfect. Oil is clean. We had previously done an engine flush with "Gunk" and will repeat after approx. 1000miles. Of course everything was cleaned prior to replacement.So besides all that we've done, is there anything else we should do/check on this 96' with 135k miles? Are there any weak points on these vehiclesthat should be addressed?
Thanks,
dONNIe

P.S. I didn't have to remove anything to remove the oil pan. I just jacked it up by the frame and spun the pan around. Of course I had everything removed from the front down through the timing case.

 

I just fixed a 97 Discovery with an oil light that came on with freeway driving. If I'd stop the car and wait, I'd get another 2-5 minutes on the freeway before the light would come on again. It was okay around town, below say 2k RPM. The solution was easier than I had thought, mostly just drop the oil pan and clean the crap out of it!

Here's what I did:
1)bought some oil flush (the kind that you idle the car for 5 min then drain oil)
2)flushed the system
3)dropped oil pan & found probably about a 1/4 cup of sandy crap at the bottom. If I had to guess I'd say it was little rust chunks almost like the pan itself were rusting.
I scraped that stuff out which took some doing. A parts cleaner would have helped.

I checked the oil pickup screen and found just a few of those "rust nuggets" stuck in the screen, enough to cast suspicion. I figure what was happening was when the oil was churning through the engine at speed the crap would get sucked up into the screen and clog it.
Once you turned the engine off everything would settle and then it would be okay for a while again.

Put it back together and no issue on the freeway so far! (only about 20 miles of testing, but I'd have seen it by then for sure) I'm pretty happy. I had bought a oil pump gear and gasket, but was dreading doing that work, seams like you need a few special tools.

PS I had a little trouble getting the cork gasket I bought to fit. It seams to be holding oil but next time I think I'd just use a liquid type gasket. LR says Hylosil to or something. I think that'd be the way to go.

 

your oil pan is cast aluminum so the "rust" did not come from that was it metalic/magnetic?

 

The oil pan on a 97 is not cast aluminum, it's stamped steel.......

You can do away with the pan gasket and use Rightstuff to seal it.

 

This is a common problem with neglected Discoveries, the oil return passages get clogged with sludge and the oil cannot drain back to the sump fast enough to supply the engine with oil because it all collects in the heads.
Shut it off, the oil slowly drains back into the sump and all is good for a short while again.
At low RPM the oil has enough time to drain back and keep the engine lubricated.