Oil Pressure Light Flickering at idle, no ticking
Folks,
I recently purchased a 1996 Disco. Engine sounded good, 233 K miles so it's an old timer.
There is a laundry-list of things to replace on this thing and I am prepared for the full rebuild if needed, but for this specific problem, I am wondering if this might not be a little simpler than I am thinking.
Oil light flickers at idle (tach says it's idling at around 1000 - 1100 but I am not sure I trust that). Indicator is never solid on. At any engine-speed above idle, the flicker goes away.
At a cursory glance, I looked at the oil level (warm). It looks fine. It's not black so, while it can probably use a change it's not awful. I have a pressure gauge coming (use to have one, but it broke).
Curiously, there are no ticks. I would expect them at this mileage. So I am not thinking bearing clearance or oil pump. Pressure sender, perhaps?
My current plan of action:
Anything I should add to this? Reorder? Insert? Thanks for your input!
I recently purchased a 1996 Disco. Engine sounded good, 233 K miles so it's an old timer.
There is a laundry-list of things to replace on this thing and I am prepared for the full rebuild if needed, but for this specific problem, I am wondering if this might not be a little simpler than I am thinking.
Oil light flickers at idle (tach says it's idling at around 1000 - 1100 but I am not sure I trust that). Indicator is never solid on. At any engine-speed above idle, the flicker goes away.
At a cursory glance, I looked at the oil level (warm). It looks fine. It's not black so, while it can probably use a change it's not awful. I have a pressure gauge coming (use to have one, but it broke).
Curiously, there are no ticks. I would expect them at this mileage. So I am not thinking bearing clearance or oil pump. Pressure sender, perhaps?
My current plan of action:
- Oil Change with appropriate oil (15-40)
- Cold Oil Pressure Test
- Oil Pressure Test @ 2000 RPM
- Pull Oil Pan to look for metal
- ???
Anything I should add to this? Reorder? Insert? Thanks for your input!
Drop the oil pan and clean the pick up tube screen. The old timers would fill the crank case with diesel fuel and let sit over night before dumping it all for oil change. You can also use ATF ans idle it for 30 min, dump and regular oil change.
I'm thinking it's a great idea to have some aftermarket gauges installed. Want a good way to do it neatly though.
I have read this can also be a symptom of the oil cooler lines leaking
My oil pressure light would take a while to go away on start up - I replaced my cooler lines and its gone with in a sec of startup.
My oil pressure light would take a while to go away on start up - I replaced my cooler lines and its gone with in a sec of startup.
Remove the radio, put a panel in its place with whatever gauges you want. Camel style.
I'd be less worried about a gauge than measuring the shell wear which you cannot hear. The light trips at 8 psi and below. How long has it run at 9 maybe 10 psi? Briggs and Stratton throw away motor..... For reference 17 year old Jeep 4.0. $900 heep at cold idle produces oil pressure at start up north of 75 psi with 5W30 at 1k. Warm idle at 700 rpm is 60 psi. 208+k and no work done on the guts. Don't rebuild it, LS it.
Get some chemicals in there and get the sludge out. The pan and the oil pump need to be sparkling clean. As a cross reference, read up on the success that Volvo,Audi and bmw owners are having with proper cleaning that does not require them to rebuild their motors.
We would do an LS swap if someone wanted but there is no demand in New England. The reason is the truck won't pass emissions in MA/NY/RI with a non-standard motor
Something to keep in mind when you consider swaps or rebuilds
Something to keep in mind when you consider swaps or rebuilds


