Oil Pressure Light Flickering at idle, no ticking
Change to a different brand of oil, or a different viscosity. Changed from 5-20 to 10-30 and my problem went away, it was winter and temps were a bit on the cold side which was why I went with the 5-20.
Also if your sensor is Black/Gold = URO = COMPLETE TRASH...... You want the Silver/White looking sensor = Good one. The URO one works, but it's apparently set for a lower PSI because everyone I've ever come across will give the same exact scenario. Replace it and see what happens. Also I'd use 15/40W Rotella but that's me.
Hopefully they fixed it in the last 2 years
Ive had 2 of these recently and Im fairly confident it was the balancer both times
one had a hogged out keyway, the other was cracked at the keyway. Both had disgusting greasy engine bays
light would appear flicker on once per engine rotation when warmed up
not 100% sure since I replaced pump, o-ring, and sending unit on one and am still putting the other back together, but it makes sense in my head that when that part of the pump that lines up with the keyway is under pressure it could escape through the void or crack
its an easy check, and you probably need a new seal and speedisleeve anyways
Ive had 2 of these recently and Im fairly confident it was the balancer both times
one had a hogged out keyway, the other was cracked at the keyway. Both had disgusting greasy engine bays
light would appear flicker on once per engine rotation when warmed up
not 100% sure since I replaced pump, o-ring, and sending unit on one and am still putting the other back together, but it makes sense in my head that when that part of the pump that lines up with the keyway is under pressure it could escape through the void or crack
its an easy check, and you probably need a new seal and speedisleeve anyways
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don_r6
Discovery II
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Sep 14, 2007 08:48 PM



