Hi,
As many of you know, I have been battling a low oil psi at warm idle. I still am, somewhat and would like to tell what I have found.
I started off by doing a complete oil psi test with a screw in gauge. It told me I had 25psi at cold idle and 48 at cold 2500rpm. Then at warm idle I had 3-5 psi and at warm 2500 rpm 30psi.
I thought something was wrong with the warm at idle number. I had the "idiot" light on the dash come on that's what prompted me to check my psi. Glad I did. I then replaced my oil pump, timing chain (very loose) and sprockets. CHECK THE SPRING THAT IS THE RELIEF VALVE IT SHOULD BE 2.5 INCHES OR 3.2 DEPENDING ON IF YOU HAVE SUFFIX "B" ON YOUR BLOCK. CALL ROVER THEY KNOW WHAT BLOCK YOU HAVE. Along with the radiator because it was gunked up so much that they wanted $500 for it to be fixed ant $ 625 shipped from BP utah. After I did this, I took my oil pan off to check for sludge. I found nothing, it was 98% clean! Still shiny. I took the pick up tube off and it was also clean. I did find some weird looking metal in the pan. Looked like wire and was less than 2 millimeters long. I didn't check the bearings on the crank (didn't know I should of) I would recommend it. I went to put the oil pan back on but my atlantic british seal DID NOT FIT. DO NOT BUY A OIL PAN SEAL FROM ATLANTIC BRITISH!!!! When I called them they said I wasn't putting it on right. Well it only goes on one way.... I used RTV (Didn't want to) I then put the water pump back on. Make sure you put the front cover on first. The front two oil pan screws into the cover. I then put my radiator back in. While I had all these hoses disconnected I changed my transfer case fluid and transmission fluid. I filled it back up with fluids and turned it on to see if I had the same problem. Well I did. I then knew it was either bearings or an oil psi switch that was faulty along with the oil pump. Once I replaced it I didn't get the light any more. My oil psi readings now are cold idle 35 cold 2500 50 warm idle 15 warm 2500 rpm 35. Yes I know that some of you will tell me that according to the rave I should have at least 40 at warm 2500rpm. Well I agree. I called the stealer ship and they say between 10psi at idle and 40psi I am between that. If something goes out because of pressure there is not much I can do except have a rover fixing party.
SIDE NOTE: I didn't remove the alternator, a/c compressor, or power steering pump, like the rave said. Its just un-needed.
The gauge I installed is really simple I ran it off the cigarette lighter because its ignition based and has a 20 amp fuse. I grounded the gauge to the grounding point in the drivers foot well. You must take the fuse box out to splice in the wires.. Its a pain to get back in. I could only get the bottom screw in and it doesn't move around at all.
See pictures.
IMAG0214 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0215 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0202 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0208 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0209 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0210 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0211 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0213 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0216 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0217 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
glow shift GAUGE with oil filter adapter.
IMAG0229 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0231 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0230 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0233 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0235 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
IMAG0223 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
In the end, so far we can call this..... a.......... success story!!!

 

Your SRS light is on....LOL!

Good job!

 

Kudos. What oil viscosity are you running?

 

SRS light is on because the air bag fuses are home and I pulled the wires. I use 10w-40

 

I just replaced the front cover/oil pump, chain and grommets as well. I'm right behind you on the gauges also. And I removed the clockspring.

 

Thats great.

 

Great pics and info. Thanks for sharing.

I want to add an oil psi guage to mine as well. Is that one of the "sandwich" style sensors that mounts between the oil filter and the block? How much was the adapter & sensor? Source?

Did you do any cleaning with the oil pan off? It looked pretty discolored, was there any noticeable build-up down there or just the coloration?

I appreciate all the pics as I learn much more from all these experiences. I am sure I will be following suit before long.

This also looks like something that would be beneficial to do when doing a HG job as well.

 

[QUOTE=Danny Lee 97 Disco;270836]Great pics and info. Thanks for sharing.

I want to add an oil psi guage to mine as well. Is that one of the "sandwich" style sensors that mounts between the oil filter and the block? How much was the adapter & sensor? Source?

Did you do any cleaning with the oil pan off? It looked pretty discolored, was there any noticeable build-up down there or just the coloration?

I appreciate all the pics as I learn much more from all these experiences. I am sure I will be following suit before long.

This also looks like something that would be beneficial to do when doing a HG job as well.[/QUOTE
The one I am using is a sandwich type. I did do cleaning when I had my pan off, there was not much to clean. No sludge what so ever. I was impressed! It cost me $60.00. I like it a lot, but it has a 2.5 second reaction time do to the fact its electronic vs actual oil being pressured in a tube up into your dash to a gauge.

 

I think I would prefer electronic rather than routing the engine oil up to the dash, less likely to spring a disaterous leak. Which brand adapter did you get? I have seen a few different ones, always intended to order one for the next oil change, just have not done it yet.

 

Would it be possible to install an electric gauge using the existing oil pressure light wiring?

Like this: Oil Gauge Installation