I know a lot of people use it, but "normal" chassis grease isn't appropriate for CV joints.
The common chassis grease is NGLI #2 which has different high temp properties that Molybdenum Disulphide CV joint grease, namely a higher melting point, which you don't want in CV joints.
Keep in mind that Land Rovers originally used 90W gear lube and only switched to grease because of people complaining of leaks.

If using grease you need to use NGLI #00, which isn't suitable for chassis lube.

 

Asking price? Condition? I am sure there will be some interest.

Oh yeah, will you take some used game system, computer parts, and old ammo as a down payment and let me make payments over a really long extended time frame?

 

The two packs from Trevor were 16 plus I got a few other specific Discovery items that you can't get just anywhere. Shipped USPS for right at ten bucks. 36 dollar total included shipping. I figured give Trevor some business. He's also reserving a new Rotoflex for me, he has a few on clearance if anyone needs one.

 

I just got thru doing the rest of the grease pack into the right swivel. Man what a difference it makes when you turn that steering wheel hard to the outside. It gets that dang ball out of the way and the stuff goes right in. I am impressed. Thanks again to Spike and our friend Chuck for the helpful advice. The swivel ball was always a mystery part to me.

I did take a couple of pics but it was starting to rain hard as I was finishing up. I still have to download my old Sony Mavica CD onto my harddrive, so I will post later to show ou newer guys that asked about the drain plug and so forth.

With the wheel turned hard, I saw a little minor pitting on the ball around the top edge. It is amazing when you clean all those surfaces really good just what all is really there.

 

Here's some pics ofthe swivel ball for those that asked.


Two pics of swivel ball area, the stuff in the jar is what I drained from the right side swivel and one pic of my rear silencer as it is coming apart. I cut the flap off with tin snips. The other pic is my reflection in the side window during a rainstorm.

 

My center muffler was pealing like that, I used banding to hold it together for a year and then I went to the local muffler shop and they welded in a new muffler for $100 out the door.
Now my truck is so quiet I can hear all the other noises I couldn't hear before, not sure if that is good or bad.

 

I am thinking about cutting it off and throwing some cheapie back there.

 

Its at the back so just straight pipe it.

 

As you can probably tell, I took some extra time and sprayed the entire area down with Mean Green and wiped it all down to get the built up gunk off. Makes a heck of a difference when trying to get stuff apart.

You can clearly see the drain bolt and the square drive fill plug in the pictures. Swivel was still nice and shiny except for minor pitting up around the edges.

I plan to get the entire underneath as clean as possible with the Mean Green so I can check for additional leeaks.

I bought a new gasket for the oil sump, so soon I will be dropping that and cleaning inside around the oil pickup screen. Also may add a sandwich adapter plate at the oil filter on next change to add a oil pressure guage. Checking all the other items like oil cooler line attachment points and such for small leaks.

I did change one of the tranny cooler lines a couple of years ago. Working my way thru a little bit at a time as money allows. Keeps me busy, off the streets, out of the bars and hopefully keeping me entertained.

 

Just put a fancy tailpipe back there.