Ooops
#1
Ooops
Hello,
I think I have a problem with my valley pan gasket. I am suddenly leaking coolant from the engine down on to the cats and transmission. This all started after psi testing the coolant system..... Here are some pictures. Thoughts??
Front side of engine:
Front side of engine. | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Rear of engine:
Back of engine. Look between. The manifold and the pipe to the left, that's where the coolant is leaking down onto transmission. | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I think I have a problem with my valley pan gasket. I am suddenly leaking coolant from the engine down on to the cats and transmission. This all started after psi testing the coolant system..... Here are some pictures. Thoughts??
Front side of engine:
Front side of engine. | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Rear of engine:
Back of engine. Look between. The manifold and the pipe to the left, that's where the coolant is leaking down onto transmission. | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
#3
Here's a blow up, the valley pan gasket has a smaller rectangle opening at front and rear on each side for coolant flow to the head. Many head gasket projects have reported finding intake manifold bolts loose, like almost finger tight. About $35 at Rock Auto, long afternoon, and you will need some new vac line tube.
But congratulations, you found the leak, and it wasn't the head gaskets...
But congratulations, you found the leak, and it wasn't the head gaskets...
#4
Here's a blow up, the valley pan gasket has a smaller rectangle opening at front and rear on each side for coolant flow to the head. Many head gasket projects have reported finding intake manifold bolts loose, like almost finger tight. About $35 at Rock Auto, long afternoon, and you will need some new vac line tube.
But congratulations, you found the leak, and it wasn't the head gaskets...
But congratulations, you found the leak, and it wasn't the head gaskets...
#5
Good questions - ways to decide if it is HG or just valley pan?
1. Combustion gas bubbles in coolant - valley might "let in" air, but HGs can pass exhaust gas - so one of those $50 combustion gas in coolant testers could guide you.
2. Steam cleaning of spark plugs, (pull and inspect, you know you wanted to put in some of those multi-prong fat spark lightning bolt whizzbang special ones anyway).
3. White smoke out the tail pipe.
4. Testing at 20 psi is the rated pressure for the coolant jug cap to vent. Cylinder compression test is over 100 psi. Unlikely you blew a good condition gasket.
1. Combustion gas bubbles in coolant - valley might "let in" air, but HGs can pass exhaust gas - so one of those $50 combustion gas in coolant testers could guide you.
2. Steam cleaning of spark plugs, (pull and inspect, you know you wanted to put in some of those multi-prong fat spark lightning bolt whizzbang special ones anyway).
3. White smoke out the tail pipe.
4. Testing at 20 psi is the rated pressure for the coolant jug cap to vent. Cylinder compression test is over 100 psi. Unlikely you blew a good condition gasket.
#6
Good questions - ways to decide if it is HG or just valley pan?
1. Combustion gas bubbles in coolant - valley might "let in" air, but HGs can pass exhaust gas - so one of those $50 combustion gas in coolant testers could guide you.
2. Steam cleaning of spark plugs, (pull and inspect, you know you wanted to put in some of those multi-prong fat spark lightning bolt whizzbang special ones anyway).
3. White smoke out the tail pipe.
4. Testing at 20 psi is the rated pressure for the coolant jug cap to vent. Cylinder compression test is over 100 psi. Unlikely you blew a good condition gasket.
1. Combustion gas bubbles in coolant - valley might "let in" air, but HGs can pass exhaust gas - so one of those $50 combustion gas in coolant testers could guide you.
2. Steam cleaning of spark plugs, (pull and inspect, you know you wanted to put in some of those multi-prong fat spark lightning bolt whizzbang special ones anyway).
3. White smoke out the tail pipe.
4. Testing at 20 psi is the rated pressure for the coolant jug cap to vent. Cylinder compression test is over 100 psi. Unlikely you blew a good condition gasket.
#7
Well, at least the radiator repair is possible (since you got a brass and copper one).
If your thermostat is a model that has the tiny bleed hole in it, the gas should pass thru that. Or take stat out. Would think your idea about refilling until it gets warm would work. I assume you hear bubbles going thru heater lines under the dash?
And at the moment, you can test with tap water, you'll be draining it soon anyway.
If your thermostat is a model that has the tiny bleed hole in it, the gas should pass thru that. Or take stat out. Would think your idea about refilling until it gets warm would work. I assume you hear bubbles going thru heater lines under the dash?
And at the moment, you can test with tap water, you'll be draining it soon anyway.
#8
Well, at least the radiator repair is possible (since you got a brass and copper one).
If your thermostat is a model that has the tiny bleed hole in it, the gas should pass thru that. Or take stat out. Would think your idea about refilling until it gets warm would work. I assume you hear bubbles going thru heater lines under the dash?
And at the moment, you can test with tap water, you'll be draining it soon anyway.
If your thermostat is a model that has the tiny bleed hole in it, the gas should pass thru that. Or take stat out. Would think your idea about refilling until it gets warm would work. I assume you hear bubbles going thru heater lines under the dash?
And at the moment, you can test with tap water, you'll be draining it soon anyway.
#10
But it was cold and I started it up and drove 15 feet and turned it off. I think its too early to tell. I will be doing a test kit on it tomorrow. Definitely in the street, its going to make one hell of a miss. lol Unless I can come by the shade tree????