Getting fustrated with this overheating problem.... I replace the fan clutch and fan, thermo stat, water pump, flush rad., test for exhaust fumes in rad.(neg), bleed all air out of rad, and still over heating. I open the oil refill cap and it's smoking like crazy. Any ideas???

 

Pull the radiator out, take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded out. Lower rows are prob clogged. Standard flush will not unclog years of crud build up

 

The belt is routed wrong.

 

X2 on both above. Also consider these notes.

Overheating by most driver's standard is heat gauge up past the little marks on the dial. Not so on Rovers. Overheating has begun at 50% or anywhere past it. This problems is bad because owners drive around thinking it is "in the band" so it must be OK. But driving for months or years at 235F is not good. A scanner or Ultra Gauge or a free code scan at a parts store can see the coolant temp in digital form. There is no need when fighting overheating to guess or let thing go to 221, etc. As soon as you go past 212 you know that you have not made incremental progress. See pix that shows gauge vs coolant temp.

Thermostat - I run a 180F in mine, I don't live where it gets real cold, but it gets real hot for months of th year. With that, and a clean radiator, I get 183-187F coolant temp. Best $10 I spent on that stat, don't use a "fail safe" one.

Raditor - flush products, white vinegar, and even remove and soak with muriatic acid won't cut the real buildup of calcium, A shop can unsolder a side tank, rod out the calcium, and hot flush with citric acid. About $75 at small indy shop near me, look for guys that do tractors, construction gear, your radiator is a teac cup to them and they don't care about your MSRP. A new copper rad is $600+, and aliuminum after market can be had in the $235 range and will have plastic side tanks.





Have you removed the belt and can't remember how it goes?

 

Thanks, belt is installed correctly. I'll pull the radiator out and get it to a shop to get clean. I just don't get why there is so much exhaust fumes in the engine oil full neck.

 

Your PCV system is clogged, thats why there is so much "exhaust" in the crankcase.

 

And with the PCV system clogged, you'll get increased flow of gunked up air thru throttle body from the driver side PCV. So butterfly valve will be dirtier, clean with carb cleaner. The PCV normally pulls filtered air from driver side throttle body thru engine and out oil separator on passenger side, into intake. If that is blocked, vacuum pulls it thru the driver side valve cover, but can't pull as much as no air passage open. A little carb cleaner squirted down the passenger side PCV helps also. You can pull off hose from throttle body and spray that orifice, mine was plugged there as well.

 

Definately will check and clean the pcv valve.

Now I just pulled the rad. out to take to a shop tomorrow to get it clean. I notice that about 1/4 to 1/2 of the fins on the bottom of the rad. is missing or hanging there. Does it worth getting the rad. clean or should put the money towards a new one?

 

Rad can be re-cored, let shop quote you. $600 - $700 for a new one. $235 for a new aluminum one with plastic tanks.

 

Savannah, you are saying those fins can be replaced?

Also do you have any pictures as to where exactly the pcv located at where I need to clean?

Thanks.