Sometimes the core is too fragile to do this, and they would end up with 100 pin hole leaks to deal with (solder up). I also paid under $100 for a rod out. The recore material for copper radiators is more expensive. You can also have them add an extra row of thickness in some cases for even more cooling.

But the key is dealing with a small shop, where they make their boat payment on the farm and construction equipment radiators, and the baby radiator repair rate is based on size, rather than sticker price of the vehicle it came from.

 

When I replaced my radiator in my 2001 Disco II, I paid $175.00 for a new one (after market). It is working well. This was in early 2011. I was getting quotes from $395- $595.00. My dad told me to ask his guy that he has been using for years and he was able to just kill the others!

 

Maybe check with Paul Grant or Will TIllery. I do not know if they really deal with radiators, but i would try them. I have seen Paul's website (actually EBAY store) where he listed several items including a water pump. Give them a call, won't hurt and I bet his price would be better.

He may even have an engine if your's has a cracked block.

 

Can you forward me their contact information? Sorry I am new t othis forum and do not know who they are.

Thanks!

 

Regarding Radiator Discovery 1 & 95 Classic | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com ... Do you know what an alignment pin is? Is it just the pin at the bottom that fits into the mount? Can i take this off my old rad (don't have it with me right now as its in my shop) ... Does it screw on? Easy tack weld?

 

It's just a pin that fits in the rubber bushing the radiator is supported by (two of them). Suppose it could be soldered / braised on. The D1 uses a copper radiator, thin, so traditional arc welding would not be used. Here are contacts for some dismantlers.

 

So - as a late follow up - been quite busy lately - I got a 2nd opinion on the rad and the new guy though that it looked fine .... confusing ....

As planned above, I did a compression test this week with the following results:
cyl.#/psi
1--175
2--173
3--170
4--175
5--171
6--155 ouch
7--175
8--170

Seems like a head gasket issue? Maybe a head gasket issue and rad?

One thing that was abit confusing is that the plugs all looked to be colored similarily (nothing weird on the #6), and still no signs of water in oil/oil in coolant, etc.

I guess I will pull the engine now to inspect the head gasket/cylinder and go from there ....

 

ummm - pulling engine to inspect head gasket is not required, most people replace HG in the truck. If you put a tablespoon of motor oil in cylinder 6, and re-test, if number comes up rings are indicated. But you are less than 10% variation. Not sure that would be all your problem.

Now - have you done anything else for your overheat - thermostat? Fan clutch? Radiator flushed, maye rodded out? What kind of shop is the "new guy"? From your previous descriptions, you have a lot more issues than compression being less than 10% off in one cylinder.

 

Pulled rad and flushed and brought for inspection at two shops. Looked at fan clutch/retested and detereminedt that it was functioning properly (besides overheating still happens at highway speeds which rules out clutch). Replaced thermostat.

I have not bought a new rad yet because of the conflicting view of that being a problem ... alot of money to spend without certinatly ... so I figured I would test compression and see if there are any engine issues - figured if the engine looked fine the rad was the only possibility ...

Based on the above, would you think that as well? The rad is the only remaining thing that could be causing highway speed overheating?

 

Well, no, while the rad could cause over heating, if tested at shops that is probably out. You have changed thermostats, some people run the stock 192-195, some run a 180, a 160 won't give much heat, and the lower temps can impact fuel economy. You can run with no thermopstat for testing, temps may be so low the ECU does not go to closed loop fuel configuration. And a thermostat can be stuck in backwards, the spring part goes inside the block. But a $10 thermsotat may eliminate other things. A water pump can be low flow, because the impeller is slipping internally or some blades are eaten away. The fan belt can be on the wrong way (see attached) , causing pump to run backwards. A previous owner can wire the AC condenser fan backwards, and truck will over heat at certain speeds because the backwards electric fans subtract air flow from the radiator fan. A plastic bag held in front of grille should be pulled toward grille, not blown away.

Exhaust gas in the cooling system can make hoses hard, high heat. There is a $50 chemical test for that, and it does enough tests to be a proof or repair for a head gasket job. There is dye you can put in coolant and then check plugs to see if it shows up in a particular cylinder or the oil.