Overheating D1
You have to take the radiator out, and with a torch, remove the tin in both sides. rod it and then weld it back with a torch and tin. Remember to leak test it with water and a compressor before installing it back.
A good tip, is to put a wide recipient with water in the ground while you are removing the old tin. This way, you can catch the old tin in the water and then, you can melt it and reuse it. :-)
Good Luck!!
DI's have a 3 core radiator and DII's have a 2 core.
The "core" is what cools the coolant, the more cores the more heat it can cool.
If you look at the thickness of the radiator you can see that one more core could be added to a DI radiator.
Takes it out, take it to a radiator shop and have them recore it, should only be $200 or so.
It will come back looking and working just like a new one.
The "core" is what cools the coolant, the more cores the more heat it can cool.
If you look at the thickness of the radiator you can see that one more core could be added to a DI radiator.
Takes it out, take it to a radiator shop and have them recore it, should only be $200 or so.
It will come back looking and working just like a new one.
Do you still have your old one? or did it get tossed out?
I have also seen some threads about flushing them yourself and going from there.
If you still have your old one, pull it apart and see what the inside looks like.
We need more people to do what is known as a "Failure Analysis" on removed major assemblies. With the information collected, more of us would know what can be done when we have time to exercise options and good judgement instead of panicing and throwing money at a problem.
If you got removed assemblies laying around, tear into them and take pictures as you go.
I have also seen some threads about flushing them yourself and going from there.
If you still have your old one, pull it apart and see what the inside looks like.
We need more people to do what is known as a "Failure Analysis" on removed major assemblies. With the information collected, more of us would know what can be done when we have time to exercise options and good judgement instead of panicing and throwing money at a problem.
If you got removed assemblies laying around, tear into them and take pictures as you go.
Do you still have your old one? or did it get tossed out?
I have also seen some threads about flushing them yourself and going from there.
If you still have your old one, pull it apart and see what the inside looks like.
We need more people to do what is known as a "Failure Analysis" on removed major assemblies. With the information collected, more of us would know what can be done when we have time to exercise options and good judgement instead of panicing and throwing money at a problem.
If you got removed assemblies laying around, tear into them and take pictures as you go.
I have also seen some threads about flushing them yourself and going from there.
If you still have your old one, pull it apart and see what the inside looks like.
We need more people to do what is known as a "Failure Analysis" on removed major assemblies. With the information collected, more of us would know what can be done when we have time to exercise options and good judgement instead of panicing and throwing money at a problem.
If you got removed assemblies laying around, tear into them and take pictures as you go.
If the tanks are still usable on it, a good radiator shop can fix it. Either by rodding or with a recore. Even if you do both (like I did) it's still cheaper than a new one.
IIIRC the radiator shop applied the cost of the rodding ($65) to the cost of the recore since it started leaking within a year.
IIIRC the radiator shop applied the cost of the rodding ($65) to the cost of the recore since it started leaking within a year.
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