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P1176 code

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  #11  
Old 11-17-2010, 01:19 PM
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No, i tightened the valve cover bolts and the puddles of oil collecting on top of the water pump went away. Is it possible I still need to do the valley pan gasket?

Also I do get a little leakage around the base of the oil filler neck where it threads into the valve cover body. I was going to put a bead of RTV there, is that a good thing to do?
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-2010, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
It threw the P1176 code again today, could old O2 sensors contribute to this?

How does one check the O2 Sensor output?
multi meter at the plugs... I hope you have good dexterity in your fingers.


The voltage should be within the range of .0- 1. volts , with 0 being lean and 1 being rich... it can peak over 1 but that will be during times of over correction or improper fuel mixture.

from the O2 the red wire is for heating, the Black wire is the siganl wire (voltage) and the white wire is ground.




... crap... I just realized you have a GEMS ECU and four O2's... be primarily concerned with the up stream sensors.
 

Last edited by Cosmic88; 11-17-2010 at 01:59 PM.
  #13  
Old 11-17-2010, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
No, i tightened the valve cover bolts and the puddles of oil collecting on top of the water pump went away. Is it possible I still need to do the valley pan gasket?

Also I do get a little leakage around the base of the oil filler neck where it threads into the valve cover body. I was going to put a bead of RTV there, is that a good thing to do?
I definitly wouldn't want to tell you yes, and that not be it. But, when mine was leaking vacuum(causing the 1176), I couldn't tell. I tried spraying carb cleaner all around it trying to find the source with no luck. It just came down to replacing it and hoping for the best. In my case, I haven't had the 1176 in over a year.
 
  #14  
Old 11-17-2010, 09:25 PM
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Are the Cruise Control Vacumn lines possible contributors. I had removed my CC vacumn pump a while back (the black unit up by the headlight). It is still out but I have the line capped off for now.

It does seem to have a slight stumbling feeling occasionally, but no misfires or other codes. Also my exhaust sound has slightly changed tone, I think my rear silencer may be rusting out. That wouldn't be a contributor would it? I was reading the RAVE for the last hour just to have a better understanding of everything.

I did remove the MAF from the air intake box and gently wiped out that area, but it looked pretty clean. Got a slight black residue out of the interior of the tubing and from the screen. I have not tried any MAF spray as I am a little cautious of handling the MAF due to it's price.

I plan to take another look at the vacumn hoses for the EGR stuff. I did get a little gunk out of the lower end of the one on the passenger's side. I am not familar with the oil seperator other than seeing it mentioned on here also. Is there a good pic of what is supposed to be there, just in case my PO may have screwed around with something?

One other question, I noticed my oil filler neck had become loose a while back. When I did my oil change a couple of days ago, the RTV bead that was around the base of the filler neck was peeling off. I figured I would reseal that with the Super Black RTV that is most oil resistant. If the base of that filler neck is not sealed, I guess that would allow a vacumn leak?
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 11-17-2010 at 09:29 PM.
  #15  
Old 11-17-2010, 10:30 PM
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A disconnected vacuum system for the CC will have absolutely no effect on engine performance.

The Muffler and resonator are not your culprits. Just replace them when you can.

The MAF should only be cleaned when it's cool... If you spray special MAF cleaner (cold) in the "little hole" (either on the side of OR in the center of the primary flow chamber, depending on whether you have 14cux or gems) when the wire is "hot" you will do damage.

Many of us clean them with no ill effects... in fact, most of us have solved part of the idle issues we encounter by having a clean hot wire sensor. The wire IS sensitive to shock or touch so great care should be taken no to touch the thermistor / wire when cleaning. It really only needs a little bit of spray and not at full blast.

As you can imagine, it soes not take much to wash a small amount of residue off a tiny wire

I have a couple spare 5AM's if anyone is in need... also a spare 14CU for an '89 RRC. (I'll put that in the classified section)
 
  #16  
Old 11-18-2010, 12:27 PM
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Cosmic88
Thanks so much for the information. I thought that was the case for those things but I was seeking confirmation. As ffar as cleaning, all I did was wipe the face of the wire screen and the interior of the air passageway with a soft cloth. Right now it is running really solid.

Mine is a GEMS system. Iwill get MAF cleaner spray and keep on hand if it does act up.

What is a 5AM?

Once again thanks for the input.
 
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