Changed the fuel filter already, it didn't help. Still not starting. It started up GREAT after I replaced the battery, though idle was a bit rough. I'd expect that with some crud still working its way through the system. But I was happy with it, shut it off, went back out to go get some groceries and it was the same, oogh oogh oogh oogh and no catch. Wouldn't start.

I know it HAS to be something reporting wrong to the ECU, given that with parameters cleared, it started right up. RIGHT? The rough idle, I'd chalk that up to clean parameters that don't know how dirty the IACV is (I have a new gasket on its way, when it comes, I will remove and clean the daylights out of it) plus that bad gas I got is just still working through -- and some Techron. I could see the idle improving as I sat and watched it warm up. At first it couldn't maintain an idle over 400, I kept having to goose it to keep it alive, then it could, and it was evening out at 700 or so.

I have the OBDii reader, is 'snapshot' helpful? Not really sure I can get it fired up again, but I can at least get some info out of it.

Thanks for the info about which code to take seriously. I received new (cheap) MAF today. Wires on the way. Whether I needed them for this or not, I'm happy to have done:

Plugs
Filter
Battery

and soon

Wires
Maybe new MAF
Clean and reinstall IACV
New pump

But seriously! SOME OF THIS HAS GOT TO WORK!!!!! What the WHAT!

 

Parameters cleared? How? If your referring to disconnecting the battery (due to replacement) that doesn't mean the ECU drops what's stored. It doesn't. It stores everything in a non-volatile memory even when power is removed. Rough idle *might* be due to the idle control solenoid and it might not, rough idle can also be caused by several other sensors gone wild. The MAF, top O2's, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor, Injectors, Coils and so on...... it could even be the ECU that's kaput and no matter what part you throw at it it may not stick.

You have a vehicle that needs to be analyzed by a shop every once and awhile. Not any shop but one that has an Autologic or Testbook T4 to truly find out what is going on with the ECU and all the sensors it gathers information from or sends to. I know you have a basic knowledge of what sensor might be the trouble but in the end the cost of you replacing what you *think* is wrong and what is actually wrong is could be causing you to spend the same amount or more as a shop would charge for a diagnostic and reset on the ECU. So *if* you get it running budget for a shop hookup in the future. They will tell you either what you already know confirming your prowess or what you don't know which could bring you to the realization that you have a money pit of a Rover....maybe. The independent shops are the least expensive hourly, European Specialty Shops usually cater to the Land Rover vehicles along with Jags and what not.

The what the what is getting it running well enough to get it motivating, maybe the replacement MAF might do it. The Idle Control solenoid port will need to be gently cleaned in order for the pintle to seat firmly closed and depth wise. That means the port will need to be cleaned down to bare aluminum, no black crusty carbon at all. Whatever you use to clean it with can't leave deep scratches on the seat otherwise you've wasted your time. Needs to be bright and smooth. Setting the new pintle length is the other issue. When changing a bad solenoid with a clean port seat it's easy to match the new pintle length to the old one. When you have a carbon crusted seat and try to match the new to the old solenoid it's a guessing game to how much further you need to turn the pintle out to compensate for the carbon that's been hammered on the seat. The ECU actually adjusts the length of the idle control solenoid on it's own, there is a screw shaft and the bulk of the idle control solenoid is actually a small motor that rotates the screw shaft. So for some guys, if the seat is clean and they adjust the pintle approximately to the old the ECU will turn the screw a smudge to finish the adjustment. Bet you didn't know that? So not only does it open and close to hit the 1200 rpm cold start speed and then adjust for the 700 rpm warm idle speed but it can move in and out to adjust itself. It has to be very close to the factory length though.

If you do have a carbon layered seat it's because your PCV valve isn't working. You need the vacuum that valve provides to also allow the engine to run well. Check it.

 

I feel bad that you have so little compassion and have taken so little time to understand, and so much anger in you, that you feel that sort of tantrum is appropriate. But I guess it's fun to trot out your pretend superiority once in a while. All done? Please don't enter this discussion again, ok? It's just not needed, in any way.

Don't treat people with your anger forward. It's unnecessary, and it pushes your crap into the world. No one needs your crap.

 

Pidge,

I'm sure ihscouts is highly capable of fighting his own battles, whatever they may be.. but I think you're being a little harsh in your statements. Where is the anger in his post? He has taken the time to answer your questions with respect.. shown an interest in what is ailing your Rover and took the time in the middle of the night to respond with detailed explanations as to the options of dealing with said issue. And it's a fact that some things we cannot fix ourselves as much as we'd like to try.

I realize that you're having a hard time lately and it's frustrating. We are all dealing with things in life and the best thing to do is to show that compassion for others rather than attack. Other than a few words and phrases such as 'prowess', 'bet you didn't know that' and 'check it', I don't see anything that could be misconstrued. That's just 'man talk' and reality.. you've done a lot with your Rover that I haven't even attempted to do with mine! I think 'prowess' is an accurate description - more power to you!

I hope you're able to pinpoint the issue soon so you don't have the hassle of idle and start issues. Best of luck to you.

 

I hope your kidding.....

 

Let's beat a dead horse.

 

lol.. I'm sorry Pidge, but we agree to disagree. I'm one of three women in my office and the rest are men. And they like to throw around their knowledge - yes, it's true - which doesn't say that I don't have similar knowledge or expertise in an area they may not. And yes, I do cry occasionally, and yell, and they yell back at me. And then they/we calm down and we look at our problems/issues in a new light and solve them. It happens everywhere.

I don't see any pontification occurring here and who knows why he was up at night. I do know that he has responded to your threads repeatedly in a respective manner and maybe you should give the guy a break.

 

You utterly misunderstood my point about emotion, and then confirmed it in your anecdote: When someone comes at you all emotion, communication stalls.

Thus I am unable to separate his obvious negative mental state from his screed.

Does that make sense?

I know you said he could fight his own battles, but I sense you're just gonna step in repeatedly and divert this thread to an argument. Enjoy, buddy. Some of us were trying to discuss Rovers.

I know, you're going to come back with some more punchy responses. Check that impulse. If it's possible to let everyone's egos deflate, the next response should be contained to automobile issues. The "you thinks" and "you assumes" and "you sounds" never fixed a car, and they never will. They just make people's lives ****ty. Is that what we wanna do here?

 

I hope you figure out what the issue is Pidge. I don't have an ego, and no punchy responses. I wish you all the best.

 

Oh, you're a woman? I missed that. Still, everything I said stands.

INCLUDING the fact that I've got a D1 that is throwing codes, that started and ran WITHOUT throwing codes and then went right back to it, and this is a place where people come to share their knowledge and experience, and LACK of knowledge and experience, in a way sometimes descends into peeing matches but sometimes results in a community.

I still hope for the latter, but I doubt that anyone's gonna re-enter this thread wanting to talk about cars.