Looks like rave electrical shows there is a red/blue that is also hooked to TPS, coolant temp, fuel temp, guess that should be the ref volt pin, one other pin is ground rest go to ecm

 

Check the sock on your current pump, if it's clean then go on up to the inline filter. If you know the inline is good then swap the pump and check pressure.

Why would you think it's the FPR? It's doing it's job of letting fuel go back to the tank at idle with 32 psi.

As far as the MAF reading how do you know it's low? How do you even know what information your getting is the sensor? It's information is being passed through the ECU to the Data Port, not directly from the sensor and I have no idea what the environmental conditions where on the day you took the reading.

 

OK scouts, hooked my actual fuel pressure test kit gauge up 28 psi at idle

If I pinch off the return shoots to 65 psi and runs beautiful

Unplug fp regulator idle 35 psi

So pump or regulator? Or?

 

It tells me the FPR is working as advertised.

I'll say it again, check the sock filter, inline, if those are good then replace the pump. Retest. Go from there if need be. When they run like crap at idle or just off idle it's usually fuel pressure related. The FPR's are damn near bullet proof, the only time I've heard of them being replaced was by folks who where throwing parts at a problem they didn't understand. If you have the bucks go ahead and throw em, if not use the pump you have already bought to find out if indeed it is the FPR not seating.

The 28psi reading is way south of 34.8 needed to feed the beast.

 

changed the pump with the one I had, new sock, no change in pressure base readings, if I block the return it will now build 90-100 psi fast


changed out the fuel filter with a new one no change in readings


when I took off the filter the fuel coming out of the engine side line was nasty looking though, I would say maybe that line has crap in it but I think pressures at almost 100 psi would blow out a clog?


again unplugged vacume hookups 1 at a time and plugged did not help


not sure why I am not getting pressure, when I block the return and psi goes up she runs great unblock line pressure drops and wants to die


plugs at the pump looked fine no fried or corroded, the plug on the drivers rear frame looks fine too, added dielectric grease since I had it open


there is probly something stupid simple I am overlooking

 

fyi the strainer part # is TS7 in ac delco, autozone brand FS22 to fit the 3270 pump

 

Next time you hit a U-Pull yank a couple of FPR's.......just incase.

How is the truck running when driving it? Still sound like it wants to quit?

 

yup getting worse so I barely made it 1/2 mile to dads to work on it


just hit u pulls last week no d1


hate to drop 130 on a fpr not knowing if it is the problem, but I do need to pull the fuel rail to swap in the Volvo injectors, at 165k guess the fpr could be bad

 

Any idea if the injectors are original? If it where me I would change those out like your planning and see what happens after that. Don't change out the FPR with a new one until your absolutely sure that's it. Keep chasing the nickel and dime stuff, you never know. I wonder how the fuel feed line looks inside? The rails are also prone to rust from the inside out and you'll see evidence of that inside the injector screens once you do the swap.

 

You could install a brass shut-off on the return line at the hose, in the hose, to control your psi to the injectors. Home Depot style Yankee ingenuity at it's best.