P1193, p0340
#1
P1193, p0340
I dislike this Land Rover...... So it is throwing P1193 and P0340 codes. It cranks just fine and when cold revs up nicely but then.... Pop, Bang, Boom when trying to rev engine. I pulled all the plugs and cleaned them today. I have replaced the front 2 O2 sensors, new air filter, plug wires are relatively new (8MM) new coil packs.... Yadda Yadda Yadda.
So it idles very smoothly but trying to rev it up it goes to ****
Any help appreciated
David
So it idles very smoothly but trying to rev it up it goes to ****
Any help appreciated
David
#2
Catalytic converters glow as well
I dislike this Land Rover...... So it is throwing P1193 and P0340 codes. It cranks just fine and when cold revs up nicely but then.... Pop, Bang, Boom when trying to rev engine. I pulled all the plugs and cleaned them today. I have replaced the front 2 O2 sensors, new air filter, plug wires are relatively new (8MM) new coil packs.... Yadda Yadda Yadda.
Ps. The catalytic converters glow red too
So it idles very smoothly but trying to rev it up it goes to ****
Any help appreciated
David
Ps. The catalytic converters glow red too
So it idles very smoothly but trying to rev it up it goes to ****
Any help appreciated
David
#3
I guess you already know this p0340 = Camshaft Position Sensor Signal Error Fault
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/landrover/
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
However the more accurate description is Camshaft Position Sensor CIRCUIT Error - meaning it can be anything from the sensor to the camshaft sensor or all the wiring in between.
I fought this same condition for years only to discover it had been solved by "something" I did but due to the Ultragauge being on a certain page, It was prolonging the symptoms so after removing the gauge it ran fine.
I never knew what the fix was but suspect it was in the wiring harness as on shop had pulled it apart and made some minor improvements.
One last item.. I got the truck to run fine until it was on the highway - then it would start crapping out. The harder I pushed it the worse it got. To the point of not revving over 1500 rpm. BUT all I had to do to get the truck back to running right was to short the battery leads for about 5-10 minutes then the cycle would start all over again.
I shared that experience with some smart people on this forum and someone mentioned it was impossible unless I had a gauge hooked up causing something in the ECU to not reset correctly --- Bingo! he was right .
Ultragauge got changed to a page not tracking the fuel trims.. and has ran great since.
**This was a long 2-3 year project and I went through several ideas - including it being the cats, alternator (starving the ECU of voltage) crank position sensor, lack of heat shield on crankshaft position sensor, and -- OH YEA, a big one.. was teeth (tabs) inside the bell housing missing or covered with oil causing a miss-count and failure to co-ordinate with the camshaft sensor, thus throwing the code (circuit error). in the end I was cheated out of knowing what it was because of the ultragauge issue..
Please keep me informed of what you experience.
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/landrover/
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
However the more accurate description is Camshaft Position Sensor CIRCUIT Error - meaning it can be anything from the sensor to the camshaft sensor or all the wiring in between.
I fought this same condition for years only to discover it had been solved by "something" I did but due to the Ultragauge being on a certain page, It was prolonging the symptoms so after removing the gauge it ran fine.
I never knew what the fix was but suspect it was in the wiring harness as on shop had pulled it apart and made some minor improvements.
One last item.. I got the truck to run fine until it was on the highway - then it would start crapping out. The harder I pushed it the worse it got. To the point of not revving over 1500 rpm. BUT all I had to do to get the truck back to running right was to short the battery leads for about 5-10 minutes then the cycle would start all over again.
I shared that experience with some smart people on this forum and someone mentioned it was impossible unless I had a gauge hooked up causing something in the ECU to not reset correctly --- Bingo! he was right .
Ultragauge got changed to a page not tracking the fuel trims.. and has ran great since.
**This was a long 2-3 year project and I went through several ideas - including it being the cats, alternator (starving the ECU of voltage) crank position sensor, lack of heat shield on crankshaft position sensor, and -- OH YEA, a big one.. was teeth (tabs) inside the bell housing missing or covered with oil causing a miss-count and failure to co-ordinate with the camshaft sensor, thus throwing the code (circuit error). in the end I was cheated out of knowing what it was because of the ultragauge issue..
Please keep me informed of what you experience.
The following users liked this post:
DHTaylor (11-18-2022)
#4
Much better
Here is what I had done and found to make it run smoothly..... so I replaced the plugs and o2 sensors.... still ran like poo. Replaced the fuel filter and much the same. So, I took out the CAM sensor and just wiped it down ( had just a smidgen of oil on it) then I noticed the drivers side knock sensor wire was bare.. I took the connector off and found the wires were touching. So I cleaned it and electrical tape the wires separately very well and put back together. As I was looking up under there, I noticed the crankshaft sensor wires were also showing and it too had its wires touching. So I fixed that issue also. After all this it started and ran like a champ with no codes. The wire insulation has just gotten beat down from age & oil. I had to open up the wire connectors about 10" up to fix it all.
#5
Here is what I had done and found to make it run smoothly..... so I replaced the plugs and o2 sensors.... still ran like poo. Replaced the fuel filter and much the same. So, I took out the CAM sensor and just wiped it down ( had just a smidgen of oil on it) then I noticed the drivers side knock sensor wire was bare.. I took the connector off and found the wires were touching. So I cleaned it and electrical tape the wires separately very well and put back together. As I was looking up under there, I noticed the crankshaft sensor wires were also showing and it too had its wires touching. So I fixed that issue also. After all this it started and ran like a champ with no codes. The wire insulation has just gotten beat down from age & oil. I had to open up the wire connectors about 10" up to fix it all.
#6
Here is what I had done and found to make it run smoothly..... so I replaced the plugs and o2 sensors.... still ran like poo. Replaced the fuel filter and much the same. So, I took out the CAM sensor and just wiped it down ( had just a smidgen of oil on it) then I noticed the drivers side knock sensor wire was bare.. I took the connector off and found the wires were touching. So I cleaned it and electrical tape the wires separately very well and put back together. As I was looking up under there, I noticed the crankshaft sensor wires were also showing and it too had its wires touching. So I fixed that issue also. After all this it started and ran like a champ with no codes. The wire insulation has just gotten beat down from age & oil. I had to open up the wire connectors about 10" up to fix it all.
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