The passenger side window (front) has been working off and on for awhile now. I suppose I should work on it, any suggestions as to where to start? Drivers side has always worked (and still does) so does that rule out the switch power? Just looking for a good starting point.

 

I'd start with the basics first, the switch. Could be as simple as dirty contacts. Try swapping with one of the known good ones

 

Known good ones?? the only window that works reliably is the drivers window. Pass window works when it wants to, back seat windows have never worked since I got the truck. Been waiting for some decent weather to work on them. Been raining for 3 days so far and it may not let up for 3 more days according to the weather pros... At least they are closed!!

 

So, use the driver switch on the passenger side.

 

Thought i would start at the door, checking connections at the motor and wiring inside the door, but it probably wouldn't take much to check the switch. Just thought there might be a relay or circuit board controlling it - like the back seat windows. Still waiting for the rain to stop.

Back to the wiring diagrams...

 

Window ECU. Behind glove box. It seems to go bad on all of them. I got one off of ebay for a reasonable price, swapped it in and my windows have been working ever since. If you search the archivees on here you will find a lot of people with the same problem. Usually it's just the rear windows. Your front passenger window might have the other problem with the roller mechanism.

 

When the window fails to open or close are there any sounds coming from the door itself. Do you hear the sound of a motor when you hit the switch or is it completely dead? If you hear the sound of the motor do you also hear anything else mechanical like the sound of a regulator slipping?

If you hear absolutely nothing, try swapping the switch first. If that doesn't help at all then you will need to pull the door card to inspect the motor. Make sure that the motor is getting power. If it is and is still not working you need to replace it.

As far as the rear windows are concerned, you most likely have a bad solder joint on the circuit board of the window lift ecu. To sort that out you will need to either repair the circuit board or replace the ecu. If you are unfamiliar with the ecu's location, it is behind the glovebox in the passenger footwell.

Remove the glovebox and the underdash cover as well. You will see a series of three ecu's mounted on the firewall. From left to right they are the abs ecu (large silver box), the cruise control (smaller silver box) and the window lift ecu (a black box with two multi pin connectors). Rather than try to remove the obnoxiously small 7mm bolts that secure the ecu in place, unplug the two connectors, pry the cover off the front of the ecu and slide the circuit board out. Examine all the solder joints and repair any that look suspect. With that, your rear windows should work again.

Like I said, If you're not up to that you can always buy a tested unit. I have them instock along with window motors and regulators.

 

I read about the ECU fix for the rear windows and that is on the list, I saw a way to bypass it to make it work too. I don't hear any noise when I use the window switch, but usually I am driving down the road and when the window works, I don't hear much noise either. Still waiting for the rain to let up. Thanks for all the information.

 

Just saw the back of my Disco going down the street, no tail lights on the left side (??) backup light worked tho.. More goodies to dig in to !!!

 

Found burned out bulbs on the rear lights. That makes a difference. Also if I slam the passenger side door, the window works.....

Spent all morning getting tires mounted for my other car. wire brushed the rust on the rear bumper and coated with Rust Destroyer, paint is the plan for tomorrow. Then of course, the kid took off to go hit the garage sales with his girlfriend...