In my eternal quest to eliminate distributor amplifier failures (already relocated it, already tried many coils and wire combos), I've resolved to move away from 35D Lucas distributors and onto more modern solutions. I've heard lots of good things about Pertronix. My research has show they make two units: Pertronix D175520 which is basically the duplicate of the stock Lucas unit which you can purchase with amplifier as side mounted or remote, and the Pertronix D175510 unit which contains all of the electronic bits on the inside of the distributor cap and eliminates the external amp altogether.

However, I have also found that the Pertronix D175510 unit ships with the Pertronix original "Ignitor I" module which has a failure mode as follows: if you leave the key at the "on" position for a few minutes and energize the coil and + side of the ignitor module without starting the engine, it will burn the unit out. That problem has been remedied in the "Ignitor II" module, but that is not provided within D175510 and cannot be purchased as an upgrade. One can purchase the Pertronix 9LU-181A part (Ignitor II on base plate and wiring) and install in an old distributor body.

Questions:

1 - Has anyone encountered this burn out failure on the Pertronix D175510? It seems to be that I leave my ignition "on" all the time while troubleshooting or gazing at cold sensor data on RoverGauge...
2 - Has anyone every installed one of these Pertronix base plates (ignitor I or II) and have you managed to get it right?

Thanks!

 

I am very happy with my D175510 distributor, for about a year now. It has not failed even though I also leave the ignition on sometimes. My discussion with Pertronix tech support was that this distributor is designed for 7 degrees btdc base timing. Vacuum source for my truck has also been changed from ported to manifold vacuum for better fuel economy around town and a cooler running engine. I am very happy with this set up.

PS. Spark plugs can be gapped a bit wider with this distributor. Most recent fuel economy check was 13 mpg (vs 11 prior) nearly 20% improvement!

 

You can just replace the amplifier with a Bosch BIM024. Fairly cheap, very reliable. You just replace the stock amp connectors with spade terminals and push them on. I screwed mine onto an alloy angle bracket, with 2 holes and some thermal paste.

The Amp is the unreliable part of the system, especially now the quality of them has gone downhill.

Mine starts much more crisply, even though my old unit was OK.


terminal 3 is 4.8mm wide, it is connected to a new red wire from the distributor. Terminal 7 is connected to a new black wire from the distributor. Terminal 15 goes to the coil +ve. Terminal 16 goes to the coil -ve.