Times 100.
I used old lawnmower fuel line and old hose clamps.
Just make sure it does not kink when you put it in place.

 

the hole sizes are different on each end...

 

Alrighty then...

I was able to locate some 1/2in fuel line that fits the bottom section of that hose and fit a smaller diameter fuel line into it. is a really snug tight fit and should work perfectly. total cost about 2 bucks.

Bought a Digital multimeter while there to start taking these sensor OHM's It got an OHM's section on the meter and I set it to 2000k Got a reading off the coolant temp sensor of 480 after the truck had been sitting in the parking lot for a bit, It's 23 outside today... The truck made the trip all the way there and home, about 20 miles, before the temp gauge got into the operating temp zone. As soon as I got home I reread the OHMs and it gave me a 285. I'll let the truck cool down now and see what the cold reading is.

This not heating up is bothering me. The thermostats new (192) The coolants full and purged. Heat in the truck does work once it gets up in temp, but it's taking forever to build coolant temp. I guess the over fueling and massive richness of the engine could be cooling it down...

With the new hose on, my idles back down to the point where the truck almost stalls. 100-200 RPM.

another interesting thing is in 3 tank fulls of fuel, I still have no CEL.

You know what would be an awesome sticky thread? one that listed all the correct OHM readings for all the various sensors... From searching the coolant temp sensor seems to be right if it's reading
-30C 90 OHMS- 300 OHMS Hot.

 

OK, ran out and took another reading with the truck cold... I had to switch the meter to 20k to even get it to read, and the reading was 3.96

So who can decipher this for me?

Cold with meter set to 20k= 3.96
Warm with meter set to 2k= 485
Hot with meter set to 2k= 285

Anyways, I ordered a new one and it should be here tuesday.

 

You did state you left the knock sensor off didn't you?
As I was under the impression that you could remove this sensor when installing the headers without issue (other than not having knock protection) I never gave it a second thought. IF it's the issue I'll replace it with a D2 sensor that has the 90deg. and fits behind the header.

As far as the resistance reading goes, it appears to reading extremely high.
If it is supposed to be 90 ohm cold and 300 hot, you should be able to read that on the lowest range. If you are having to go from the 2K range to the 20k range to get a reading, that means it is above 2000 ohms. If you are getting that reading at cold, I would interpret that 3.96 as almost 3960 ohms since it read at 20K range but not at 2k range.

Your 485 at warm is a straight 485 ohms, your hot reading is 285 ohms. According to what you had posted regarding the sensor should be 90 ohms cold and 300 hot, yours is doing the opposite of that. Your resistance is decreasing as it warms up instead of increasing. I am glad to see you finally bought a meter. When reading resistance with a digital meter, you want to use the lowest range that will give you a reading for accuracy.

You also mentioned a fuel leak when refueling? I had to replace both of the steel fuel lines (feed and return) due to corrosion causing massive leaks, I also had to replace the rubber hose going from the fill nozzle to the tank. Mine had dry rotted at the top of the hose and looked like it could fail at any time.

I got the rubber fill hose from Rovers North. For the steel lines, I bought a 25 foot coil of 5/16 fuel line at autozone for about 20 bucks and hand formed new lines from the tank to the engine bay and back. My fuel filter was also badly corroded and sprung a pinhole leak so I put on a new generic fuel filter and relocated it along the side of the frame as I replaced and rerouted the fuel lines.

The top of my fuel pump assembly had a nasty crack in it so I replaced it with a new ProLine assembly from RN also. So my fuel delivery system is new from the fill door to the fuel rail in the engine compartment.

If you have a fuel leak, I suggest you locate it's source.

 

Yup, I totally agree, I've chased fuel leaks on both my other disco's also, seems to be a weak spot for them. We got 7 inches of snow last night so I won't be crawling under it to drop the tank for at least a couple weeks, unless I can talk my friend in town to let me do it in his shop.

I should have a brand new coolant temp sensor tomorrow and will put it on.

And, I had left the drivers knock sensor off, but it was replaced (hooked up) last week. I'll oder the D2 version with the right angle so it fit's behind the headers in the original location.

 

I am sure someone will slam this post, but replace these parts. It is a kit and something you can rule out. If the little crankshaft thingy is clogged, it does no good at all, better to just leave the hose off all together.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm

Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.

Make dang sure your knock sensor is seated properly. If someone used teflon tape, it isn't reading right. This will retard the timing and overfuel.

You seriously need to hook this thing up to a scanner and read the real-time live data.

 

I took it to a rover guy in Chattanooga specifically to have it hooked up to the test book... he had it over a week and worked on it 6 hours, to get it to the point it is right now, but never hooked it up to the testbook... said he had something else that was faster...

This is starting to get retarded. I have never had this much pain or issues to get an engine to run. Christ, my Blown 383 stroker motor with twin 750 holley's was a piece of cake compared to this and everything on it had to be custom built!.

I'm again seriously leaning to just yanking the fricken engine out and replacing it with something that can actually be worked on and isn't reliant on all these damn sensors that nobody can seem to figure out.

In the week he had it, he did the compression check, tested the fluids, did a vacuum test replaced the IACV and the coolant sensor switch, (which I'm replacing again tomorrow) plugged the drivers knock sensor into it (which I have been specifically told by 3 others isn't even needed Including someone that builds these engines for racing.)

Had one group telling me it's the injectors, so I replaced them, had other group saying those injectors don't work and I should put the old ones back in... and round and round. I don't get it... I've been at this now with this engine for 6 months. half a year, and I still don't have a drivable truck. Even a half asses swap would have at least netted me that by now.

I swear to god, I'm about ready to just toss a match into it and watch it burn just so I can cook a hotdog off the fire and at least get some enjoyment out of it.

 

Lemmie get this straight... a certified / trained rover mechanic had your rig for a week, did 6 hours worth of work, posesses testbook or some other diagnostic tool and never hooked it up once to view signal values of the sensors or the ecm? Talk about retarded...

Just swap in the Diesel so we have something interesting to read about or do the match thing.

 

If you only knew how serious I'm being. I'm about done with this. And from experience, that just about what to expect from any "certified rover specialist" I have ever tried to use. The fact that I told him that hooking it up was the main reason I took it to him in the first place but he didn't, really pisses me off. So a tank full of fuel to get to him, in the truck. being followed by my wife and kids for an hour in my other car, having to repeat that to pick it up and be basically at the same point I was when I took it to him in the first place... Other than the IAVC which I specifically told him to replace.

But, it does leave me at the point where there is no where else to take it around here. If I had a jeep or pathfinder or toyota I could have it worked on anywhere.

Selling it to the scrap yard would at least make me feel better as long as I can watch it be crushed personally.