"The stripes are vinyl, yes it has the locking diff. The engine is in great shape and i drive this thing to work pretty much everyday, no issues.

Here are some of the mods:


2" spring spacers
2" Old Man Emu Springs
Rancho shocks
Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer using rockware relocation kit
Rock Sliders
Front Diff guard
Sleeved Drag-Link and Tie rod
Front Skid Plate
Safari Snorkel
Low range Transfer case 1.6:1
Earl's stainless brake lines all around
2" Cranked front radius arms
2" Rockware trailing links
Rockware rear shock mounts
Hella 1000 lights
PIAA rock lights
Double Cardon front driveshaft our of Discovery II, using Disco 2 drive flange
Ujoint replacement using precision 344
Center ball joint for double cardon end precision 617
Dealership installed self cleaning heads at aroudn 76k miles
New clutch, pressure plate, radiator, thermostat, etc.
It's airline plumbed for the ARB air locker, but it's no longer in the vehicle
3.54 gears"

Did notice that the truck had dual optima red tops, everything seems to be in order with the truck just very rough cosmetically. I drove it around for a while and the steering was very loose, wondering if the box has a nut that can be tightened to take up the slop? It didn't overheat, ran great, shifted fine although you have to be somewhat slow on the shifts... I'm used to driving small sports cars so maybe just me.

I did put it into low range the the center diff seemed to lock based on some jerkyness in a tight circle. Had a slight hard time getting it into low range and had to hold the lever forward and let out on the clutch slowly... maybe needs adjustment? The center lock light stayed on after I disengaged it until I drove about 20 feet or so... is that normal?

I let it sit running for about 20-30 minutes and the fans cycled on and off several times and the only thing that leaked out of the truck was the AC water dripping. AC blows very cold.

It has all the lines and stuff for the ARB lockers but they were taken off.

The rear driver side door doesn't open, neither from the outside or the inside. Is that a difficult fix?

I drove it on the interstate briefly and the RPM's were around 3000 at 65-70mph, is that normal? Seems pretty high to me considering the 3.54 gears.

The guy who is selling it isn't a Land Rover guy, he is a Jeep guy but he bought it (has a lot of toys) and drives it daily because it is the most reliable of all his vehicles.


He said he would sell it to me for $3000 plus a used Canon 60D that I hardly ever use. Good deal? It's in rough shape but it seems to have all the good parts.

 

I would do more than a cursory look. The Check Engine Light is on, so it would be wise to get a code reader and see what codes it has popped.

If you can find a SCAN GUAUGE or othe live data reader you could look at precise values.

Plus I saw a kinked brake line in a couple of the picture, that needs replaced. And those shocks? They are NOT MOUNTED using the correct shock mounts. They could be a problem in extreme off-road condition. The Land Rover Discovery weight is right at 4500 pounds or so mine reads on the scales at the metal recycling place I go to. I would be hesitant to go with just any mounting system. The standard mounting for the front shocks is up thru the coil spring into the shock mount towers under the hood. Yours changes all of that. I hesitate to consider them equivalent.

I would consider a much lower offer and see if he bites depending on what the codes read. If it needs little or no work to keep it going right now, it could be a fun truck.

 

The drivers front brake line isn't kinked, its the angle of the pictures. it actually loops a bit straight at the camera.

Steering slop, worn tires and cosmetics are the only thing I saw wrong with the D1... but I am not a LR expert. Very new to these things. I don't know about the shock placement but I am pretty good with mechanics (rebuilt several engines, built several turbocharged street cars, replaced a lot of brakes for people in parking lots, ...etc) I have a welder so if its a matter of putting tabs or building something to the shocks back in the correct location I can handle it.

Do you have a picture for reference?

 

Those are stainless steel brake lines, they totally revamped the suspension, I bet it has hella suspension travel.
Here is a pic of the way it is supposed to be.



Coil over shock.

 

If you raise the hood, you should see the tops of the shock towers. Lots of times the originals rust or even crack they do sell a Heavy Duty Replacement shock tower. Simple thing to redo.

As far as the brake lines, the flex is used as a replacement especially for longer shocks and more travel, just be carreful that the slack does not loop out to where it could easily be snagged and ripped away if on the trail. I would have some concern there possibly. Hard to determine from pics.

It probably would be a good fun truck, take it to Advance Auto and borrow their code reader so you know why CEL is on.

A good runner in the 2 to 3 grand range is not a bad deal.

 

Both front and rear shocks should be coil over, did not see how the rear of these are. My concern with any other mounting would be ripping it loose if it is indeed inferior.

That could be real bad underway.

 

The doors can be an easy fix. The rods that actuate the lock mech are adjustable, you'll likely have to shorten both to get them to both work.

Are the ARB's still in the axles? I didn't see a compressor to run the lockers.

I'd say she's definately seen a lot of use and abuse. That front skidplate doesn't get scratched and bent negotiating mall parking lots...

 

re: That front skidplate doesn't get scratched and bent negotiating mall parking lots... you haven't seen my wife drive....

 

O)ne other thing I just saw is the old style black radiator overflow tank. The black one they say have a tendency to split and were later replaced with a newer design that is whitish or opaque. So if you do buy it, you will want a new overflow tank.

 

Somebody has the Initials TLB, you can see them welded onto the cute little slider bars they fabbed up for each side.

Looks like a poor copy of a Defender exterior roll/crash bar cage.

And the dent in that front skid, I bet that brought the front wheels up off the ground when they hit.

Drive it like you stole it must have been their motto as well.

Those shock mounts still have me wondering.......