Dude, seriously, did you actually look at it yet? Look then post. Not really tryin to bust your stones but you will find people pay more attention to your posts, which is a good thing, cause then they answer.

First CLEAN. Lots of brakekleen, man I use that stuff like it was water.

Put your wheels straight and mark everything position wise. Otherwise you will be in for an ugly surprise when you go to put it all back together again.

Remove the bolt that holds the drag link to the drop arm. (Drop arm is the lever thing below your leak. Take the bolt off the other end. You may need a puller or pickle fork to get that off.)

Undo the bolt holding the steering universal (it's a pinch fitting, may have to open it a bit with a screw driver)

Take the two bolts out holding it to the frame member, and get ready to catch it, really you need two people or you will squish your fingers or drop it as it is a heavy ******.

I would hazard to say here that if you are stumped by how to get it out of the truck, you will undoubtedly waste your time and money trying to fix it yourself. There are two seals on that (sector) shaft that are held on by circlips, big thick ****ers that will make you want to cry. Also, that is a healthy leak which would lead me to believe it is more than a leaky seal, probably the shaft is scored by a hardened seal or errant spring. Do you feel comfortable relocating a seal in its bore to compensate for this? Split the difference of that spacer by machining two new ones half as thick and putting one in front and one behind? I'm just trying to save you a little time and money.

Last, if you do it based solely on my post, you are a fool I'm just some random internet guy. Get the rave, check it out

Good luck with it

 

i looked at a bit from where i was but it helps to get some tips beforehand so i know what im getting myself into. it doesnt sound like a big deal to get it off. ill dealt with worse things in tighter spots but to rebuild it sounds like something i wouldnt wanna do. from the looks of it the shaft dropped about a half an inch lower than it should be and that does seem like its more than just a bad seal. i still like taking things apart though. childhood obsession. ill more than likely get frustrated at it and want to drop it from a 3 story building. that sounds pretty fun.

 

If it has dropped as you say, then start shopping for a new one. There are two caged bearings inside that hold everything on that shaft "up" so to speak. At least one of them has come apart most likely which means it is toast, as the guts would be scored all to hell by bearing bits. The good news here is that they are very very hard to kill, so finding a good used one should be pretty easy.

 

My steering box just went from a light leak to a more significant leak at the same location, just not dripping out that bad.

Hopefully it will get me to Denver Airport Saturday and back. Then I will have to look into replacing it.

Sucks.

It has been an expensive summer/fall with this friggin' rover of mine.

 

Ya taking these things apart to rebuild takes a lot of memory. Tons of bearings, ***** and seals that if you misplace one, will fail upon reinstall.

 

Here's an option:

http://www.roverlandparts.com/discov...ear-boxes.aspx

 

thats a fair price for those there. sucks the disco 1's are out of stock. im about to pick up a used one for $230.

 

230$ sounds expensive for a used one. is it a reman?

 

nope it was taken out of a 96 with 88k. its half as much as anywhere else i can find it.

Autozone - $440, $130 core
Rovers North - $660

even remanufactured ones on ebay are going for around $300. same for some random sites and parts places ive called. i dont even wanna know how much one is at a dealer. i have one pretty close to me so im tempted to check.

 

yah I think I paid around 400 or so for a reman here locally at a european specialty store. anyways,the clamp on the input shaft, the 2 hoses on the top, 4 bolts through the frame to the side of the box and then the 2 right above the pitman arm, then you can remove the whole box, I had to take mine up and out from the top (it was easier than out the bottom) and I had to have a helper. imagine it like trying to get a couch through a tight stairway with railings! anyways, the pitman arm on mine was a PITA to get off and on, used an impact gun with a pitman arm puller and the arms of the puller actually started to separate, so you can imagine it required some torque. anyways don't know if it helps but there is a cross reference on a range rover (think its 92-95 classic but not sure) that uses the same gear box. don't know if it will help but it may open some extra junk yard opportunities.