Hey I see you are from Atlanta. There is a member on here Antichrist (Tom), get ahold of him, he can give you a lot of guidance and probably point you to who you need to be dealing with. And probably save you a lot of money as well!

 

Thanks for the brutal honesty Danny Lee!! LOLOL
I'm sending it back...they're sending me the Return Shipment labels in the next couple of days. Since I already had the radiator, my mobile mechanic was only charging me $150. I do have a Rover shop that I take my truck too but I just spent $1184 with them on the new water pump, thermostat, hose and aux fan motor so I'm a little short on funds. The mobile mechanic has done other repairs on my Rover without issue so he's not shade tree. I just think he hasn't worked on enough Rovers to know all the ins and outs.

This is actually the first issue I've had with a repair. And surprisingly, several of the Rover parts specialists also sell the adapters so it's not just that particular site. I don't know about the other stuff you saw on there because I was only looking at radiators. I usually order OEM parts or make sure the repair shop uses only OEM parts on my vehicle. Lesson learned on this one though! I'm going to have it rodded out before purchasing another radiator and see if that works first.

Again, thanks for all your help.

 

I recall getting a radiator from a salvage yard for a Range Rover, looked just like the D1, but fittings were slightly different. I had to remove my old ones and swap. And then swap back again, when I found out salvage rad had blocked oil cooler. We have just had write ups of $232 aluminum replacement by georgep, all seems well after maybe 2000 miles.

 

Thanks Savannah. I'm just gonna return it and hope the rodding solves the problem with my existing one. If not, I'm trading that sucker in for something else. This whole ordeal has been extremely frustrating and I don't have thousands of dollars to keep throwing at this dang truck!

 

rod out and acid flush saved my original rad, 180K+, 180F stat, 180-183 F on the highway.

 

Brutal Honesty comes easily, I also am from the Atlanta Georgia area. That is all us Georgia Cracker Rednecks know.

You should look up Antichrist888, he is a great resource and he has a 95 Disco and is really a very helpful and knowledgeable resource.

He may be able to point you to a good radiator shop to deal with. If I were down there, I would be calling on him.

If you are going to try a new radiator, try the one that both George and one of our Texas members have purchased.

But I also would go with trying to get the original fixed. For a good look at prts, go to Rovers North site and heck out their webpages. Even if find a cheaper price, their illustrated breakdown drawings are a great resource.

Many of the websites claim their parts are interchangeable but very few are worth dealing with in my opinion. There are a few that really specialize in Land Rovers that are good to use.

Also keep Paul Grant and Will Tillery and a few other parts recyclers in mind as they can save you money on used parts. I have bought from both of them.

Always ask on here for suggestions and don't just jump on the first website you see.

And keep in mind, the more you do yourself, the mpore you will learn about it and the more you will be able to do.

I am glad you were happy with the WP replacement, but in my opinion that much money could have taken care of a lot more than just what you listed.

I know that if you have not done much before, it can be intimidating initially, but the Discovery is not all that bad for a lot of the task with the directions from the RAVE and all the information available.

Then again, paying a good pro can also have it's advantages in some situations. But changing wp/rad/hoses and therm is mostly just turning a wrench. A few hundred in parts and several hunderd in labor.

After a while you even enjoy the satisfaction of fixing it yourself. Sometimes you may need to have someone else do it for one reason or another, but are they going to care as much as you would about doing a good job?

Get into doing the research and you will accomplish a lot more for the money you spend and not be at the mercy of others for the things you can do yourself.

 

It could be the "right" radiator.
Some of the early (I think) radiators have a male x male adapter (PN ESR1262) between the female bung soldered in to the radiator and the female fitting on the oil line.



Later radiators just have the male fitting soldered directly to the radiator.
Did you check the oil line to make sure that adapter didn't come off with them?

Sometimes having your radiator rodded will remove all the gunk that's plugging the holes in the tubes, so it starts leaking. But either way you can't use it as is.
If rodding isn't an option you can have it recored.

 

Tom,

Thanks for the clarifications. The notations on that site did not give me confidence.

I did not think of possible variations from year to year, even though LR has made several changes on the fly as well.

The price they showed was on the high side also I felt.

 

Oops, sorry, I missed your post where you were quoting the site, so I was basically repeating it. :P

I think the reason they say may need 2 or 4 adaptors is because the auto and manual radiators are different.
On the 5-speed there's only the engine oil cooler connections. The transmission cooler lines only go to the single tube cooler in front of the AC condenser.
You can use an auto radiator in a 5-speed, but not vice versa.

 

What if you wanted to substitute an aftermarket cooler and plumb it in.

I watched one of the Search and Recovery shows where they redid a very early Ford F2 and the work they accomplished was incredible.

They even added AC and made all custom hoses and put in a new Ford Racing 302 with a custom tranny and new Wooden Bed made from Ash. I was blown away at what all they did to that rig.