Radiator Plug
#31
Ah I remember reading somewhere that the brass plug wasn't available anymore so didn't know they were out there. I'm pretty sure the Dorman plug is an exact match for the threads. I compared threads and no light can be seen through them when held together. They don't look like a tapered pipe thread.
Again, for anyone in a non-emergency situation, order one from Rovahfarm, along with some RTC3511 hub seals to spread the shipping costs. A plug and 5 or 6 seals would be about $5 or $6 shipping USPS flat rate.
Last edited by antichrist; 03-12-2013 at 06:13 AM.
#32
Thank you, hopefully she'll keep on going for another 100k. It does have the R380. I just posted a thread on the original R380 that was rebuilt and then blown up. I still have the original but its been sitting and rusted. All it needs is a fifth gear and its counter-shaft counter part. And then I'll have a brand new "Extra" R380 .
#34
I got lucky with mine, Broke when I had my truck in the shop i was working at for ac work, replaced the tank while it was inside and while removing to bleed, it snapped. one guy in the shop had one spare plug and it happened to be the right one. not sure what it was from, drain plug from something, but 2 years later it works and seals no problem, and it's been in and out several times.
#35
Here is a brass one for $3.99
Radiator Brass Plug Ref: ERR4686B
RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories
It is the same thread as the DII diff fill plug.
Radiator Brass Plug Ref: ERR4686B
RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories
It is the same thread as the DII diff fill plug.
When I try to use the O-ring it bulges out from under the plug. For the time being, I removed the O-ring and wrapped a little thread tape on the brass plug.
#36
There is no groove on the underside of the head for the o-ring to drop into on the Rovahfarm brass plug. I used these for my Diff plugs on my D2 and just added a little RVT type sealant around the base of the plug on the underside of the head. Not sure what may be your best bet when using it on the cooling system on the D1. I would say the thread tape may be a good way to go, but no sure. I will let some D1 guys jump in on that.
Last edited by Rover_Hokie; 05-12-2013 at 12:59 AM.
#37
It's BSPP thread so they don't seal by the threads. Use the o-ring and just don't tighten it more than you need to. You may need to experiment some.
I didn't know the rovahfarm plugs didn't have the recess. I guess that's thy they are cheaper.
The ones I use have the recess for the o-ring, but I had to sell them for about $13 so didn't bother anymore because of the cheaper ones available.
I didn't know the rovahfarm plugs didn't have the recess. I guess that's thy they are cheaper.
The ones I use have the recess for the o-ring, but I had to sell them for about $13 so didn't bother anymore because of the cheaper ones available.
#39
Just found this: $2.99 and it looks to have the O-ring groove
FILL PLUG RADIATOR TDI,V8 1989 ON BRASS, PLC997, ERR4686 - Land Rover Parts | Rovers North
FILL PLUG RADIATOR TDI,V8 1989 ON BRASS, PLC997, ERR4686 - Land Rover Parts | Rovers North
#40
I have the RovahFarm brass plug along with the rubber O-ring. Is the O-ring also required for the brass plug or is that only for the plastic plug?
When I try to use the O-ring it bulges out from under the plug. For the time being, I removed the O-ring and wrapped a little thread tape on the brass plug.
When I try to use the O-ring it bulges out from under the plug. For the time being, I removed the O-ring and wrapped a little thread tape on the brass plug.
I didn't have issues with the o-ring bulging out. I used the o-ring with the plug and have not had any issues.