Radiator Weight
#2
Difficult one
The original factory radiators for a V8 are an all metal brass and **** off heavy at like 35lb
Replacement Nissens 64029 is ~20lbs dry
Avoid ebay rads, they are all 300tdi despite what they say. I bought all of them and went through all of them just to test.
Had an allisport as well and it leaked, but prior to leaking it was nice. I dont think it performed 1100gbp but hey if youre going to splurge, go wild.
The original factory radiators for a V8 are an all metal brass and **** off heavy at like 35lb
Replacement Nissens 64029 is ~20lbs dry
Avoid ebay rads, they are all 300tdi despite what they say. I bought all of them and went through all of them just to test.
Had an allisport as well and it leaked, but prior to leaking it was nice. I dont think it performed 1100gbp but hey if youre going to splurge, go wild.
#3
Reason I ask is replaced one a couple weeks ago and the bastard was weighty. I half expected it to be not because it's an old school but PO used some form of stop leak.
Thought was that stop leak (gritty white/gray stuff) had settled at lower left when sitting in garage with flat front left tire. After draining coolant for a head gasket job, truck sat for a while.
Eventually got it back together and the dad-burn thing developed an overheating condition. Wouldn't overheat before h.g. (external) job. Even drove it a bit with leaking gasket without overheating.
Infrared thermometer showed that lower left of radiator was only about 115° f when Ultragauge showed 200° +.
Replaced it with a Nissen flavored one and all is well. Except for developing a trans cooling line leak.
Thought was that stop leak (gritty white/gray stuff) had settled at lower left when sitting in garage with flat front left tire. After draining coolant for a head gasket job, truck sat for a while.
Eventually got it back together and the dad-burn thing developed an overheating condition. Wouldn't overheat before h.g. (external) job. Even drove it a bit with leaking gasket without overheating.
Infrared thermometer showed that lower left of radiator was only about 115° f when Ultragauge showed 200° +.
Replaced it with a Nissen flavored one and all is well. Except for developing a trans cooling line leak.
#5
Reason I ask is replaced one a couple weeks ago and the bastard was weighty. I half expected it to be not because it's an old school but PO used some form of stop leak.
Thought was that stop leak (gritty white/gray stuff) had settled at lower left when sitting in garage with flat front left tire. After draining coolant for a head gasket job, truck sat for a while.
Eventually got it back together and the dad-burn thing developed an overheating condition. Wouldn't overheat before h.g. (external) job. Even drove it a bit with leaking gasket without overheating.
Infrared thermometer showed that lower left of radiator was only about 115° f when Ultragauge showed 200° +.
Replaced it with a Nissen flavored one and all is well. Except for developing a trans cooling line leak.
Thought was that stop leak (gritty white/gray stuff) had settled at lower left when sitting in garage with flat front left tire. After draining coolant for a head gasket job, truck sat for a while.
Eventually got it back together and the dad-burn thing developed an overheating condition. Wouldn't overheat before h.g. (external) job. Even drove it a bit with leaking gasket without overheating.
Infrared thermometer showed that lower left of radiator was only about 115° f when Ultragauge showed 200° +.
Replaced it with a Nissen flavored one and all is well. Except for developing a trans cooling line leak.
Glad you got it all wrapped up on your end.
Yeah, make sure you inspect them as they arrive. I had one show up with an overflow nipple broken off, of course retailer wanted it returned. Not to be stopped I tapped the nissens, threaded in a bung and then locked with jbweld. Holding fine 10k mi later.
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JohnZo (11-27-2023)
#6
My new plastic radiator has developed a small leak at the outlet flange. Looks like one of the metal threaded inserts is pulling out. If I get a new one, I will disassemble that lower flange, make sure the o-ring is good quality, and apply a good gasket maker silicon, then not over tighten the bolts since the o-ring is what seals, not bolt pressure.
At this point, I worry more about air getting pulled into the system vs fluid out (I run with the pressure cap loosened, and a FlowKooler pump). Next step is to try some gasket maker. If that fails, then epoxy. Then a new radiator after that, if I last that long....
At this point, I worry more about air getting pulled into the system vs fluid out (I run with the pressure cap loosened, and a FlowKooler pump). Next step is to try some gasket maker. If that fails, then epoxy. Then a new radiator after that, if I last that long....
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