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I’ve been posting in the D1 forums here for a couple weeks.
I got the ole gal running this weekend.
waiting on the olive barb crush fitting for the fuel line so that won’t leak.
She purred when I started her up.
Questions currently:
What size thickness are the floor panels? I’ll need to weld them in, also, the back floor section, can I buy it as a whole piece, or do I need to weld it in?
This thing was parked due to having a “massive brake failure”. Where if any are common failure points on these brake systems? The lines seem to be good, but it won’t build pressure.
Also, here is the current state of the Resto Off Road build. About a month of ownership.
Never had such issues getting wheels removed 😉😂😅.
Vacuum booster and master cylinder would be the obvious places to look if you don't have obvious leaks and if it didn't slowly get worse (like related to water in the fluid or a little air in the lines needing bled). There are several simple steps to testing a brake booster. You can look online for guidance, if you need to. If you see no leaks and the booster seems fine, you could see if the system will bleed. I'm pretty sure the D1 ABS block is supposed to flow through if you take out the fuse. I'm more familiar with Range Rovers, but I'm sure someone with more experience will come along soon.
master cylinder and booster are the suspects. I'm not sure what current thinking is, but for a while non-genuine MCs were found to be lacking. That may have changed.
If you are in the mood to spend a couple of extra bucks, switch to D110 calipers and rotors (non vented) in the front. They are bigger pistons/pads. They are a direct fit. D-90's are vented which if you are off road, may not be the best idea depending on the environment. D-90's will also work.
Walt is correct. The D110 or D90 front set are good. However, I would make sure everything upstream is working (not necessarily ABS modulator) before doing swap.
I had some lame brakes several years ago and thought the D110 (vented, I don't like mud) would help w/o making sure booster and master were worth a poo. It did not. Did develop an odd problem instead. The pads would rattle and at rest were not touching the rotors.
Hell yeah! My man is on a mission!
Yes you can pull the ABS fuse and they will function as non abs brakes just fine.
Yes rear floor panels area available. - You can get replacement panels from Atlantic British and from Europe- Paddock spares, Rimmer Bros, LR parts, TWS motors.
I have had patch welding done on mine - its thick enough.
My brake lines rusted out at the base of the firewall - drivers side. There is a coupler joining the rear section to the engine bay/MC section.
If you go the route of replacing brake lines - I sourced all my parts from napa except the 13mm end nut at the ABS. I traced the original lines bending and zip tying as I went.
Also at its age - the rubber lines at the axles should be replaced.
Hell yeah! My man is on a mission!
Yes you can pull the ABS fuse and they will function as non abs brakes just fine.
Yes rear floor panels area available. - You can get replacement panels from Atlantic British and from Europe- Paddock spares, Rimmer Bros, LR parts, TWS motors.
I have had patch welding done on mine - its thick enough.
Shes sanded everywhere. Washed, and now I’m gonna fill the dents and get her as straight as possible before paint. Here is the current state. Fuel pump and fuel lines officially sealed! I also have all the wires and blend door cables on the way for the dash. This project is already in the thousands, I’m only 27. If anyone wants to donate a complete center console housing that would be awesome 😂😂.
Here are the updated pictures: A wash after week and a half of sanding.
ALSO, I gave her some revs, and hilariously, the home of a squirrel or chipmunk came out the tailpipe about 50 feet. There is plenty more to fish out too, too bad the exhaust is getting cut 😉
My brake lines rusted out at the base of the firewall - drivers side. There is a coupler joining the rear section to the engine bay/MC section.
If you go the route of replacing brake lines - I sourced all my parts from napa except the 13mm end nut at the ABS. I traced the original lines bending and zip tying as I went.
Also at its age - the rubber lines at the axles should be replaced.
Here is the current state!
Sorry, I don’t know why it posted like I was responding to the other guy, and myself all in one.
center console - if your referring to the black molded plastic around the HVAC - some Junk yards will list inventory - prolly the most cost effective solution if no donation. Also check your bulbs before reassembly. If you find one on a doner vehicle - bring at least 4 old credit/debit cards - you will need to insert them on all 4 sides of the ashtray/clock to remove. While the HVAC is exposed, prolly worth removing/disassembling/cleaning the fan speed selector (PIA, from the back, held in by a tab - credit card again here). I soaked mine in white viniger for a few hours to remove the varnish - then cleaned with alcohol, added dielectric grease on reassembly. -When they age they cut out at speed 3 & 4 due to heat/varnish. I would also recommend you do the same to the recirculate and A/C buttons.
brake lines - forgot to mention, you will destroy all the line retaining clips upon removal (brittle plastic) - Im pretty sure I sourced all mine from RoversNorth
Rock auto sometimes has some pretty good deals - like $25 for Brembro rotors (a while ago) ..... also alot of garbage on their too.......
car-part.com can be used to identify salvage yards in your area that may have inventory. Search for 'center console' or 'dash' or 'heater control' to get a sense of which yard has the vehicle on the yard.
car-part.com can be used to identify salvage yards in your area that may have inventory. Search for 'center console' or 'dash' or 'heater control' to get a sense of which yard has the vehicle on the yard.
WOW! That website is awesome. Never knew it existed. Thanks! Today I got some bondo on and sanding for the dents completed. Tomm I’m going to lay down some primer, and cut the floors out and exhaust off.
We are making progress. After finding and fixing the brake issue it will probably be slow. But I will keep start a new thread with updates as I do them!
Random questions for rebuild!
