Ok guys I have a question!

I was getting a little wild beneath the truck with an angle grinder, there is what I believe to be an “Emergency brake transmission drum” in the front half of the rear driveshaft. There is a very thick line going to it. Whatever that line is, I accidentally cut into the metal of.

any ideas? I’m hoping it is just a housing for my cable, but it doesn’t look like a housing, it’s VERY thick.

Thanks in advance pal.

 

that sounds like the parking brake cable. - Walt has the 'Rave' manual in his google docs if you havent grabbed that yet- should be able to confirm with that.

 

I'm afraid to ask what you were grinding in that area. Hopefully the Y-pipe to muffler bolts.

 

Someone did a previous removal and complete re weld of the exhaust system, so it didn’t have the bolts on it, so I had to cut it off. Of course it will get left off, because I live in America, where we measure freedom in exhaust Decibels 😂. But yes, I accidentally cut the parking brake cable/ it didn’t go all the way through it however, so I may be good. Not sure if it matters.

 

I guess it will only matter that day you yank on it and it breaks instead of brakes.

There is an electrical failure mode on these vehicles, if the wired ground paths for the starter get corroded or loose, current will find its way through the e-brake cable sheath. Creates heat and smoke and sparks and such. I mention this because there have been posters that have replaced that cable with new, so they are available for not too much. Safety first!

 

HA!

Ok ok I hear you. I will replace it. Although, safety isn’t my middle name!

 

Without the plastic sheathing I would expect the interior metal cable to corrode.

 

Unfortunately I cut into the interior cable pretty far. Still seems to work fine, but I will replace it. I somehow didn’t see it. It also could’ve been cut prior to me being down there, who knows.

 

Progress on the left side floor pan leaving the chat! I broke the key off, so where do I get a new key made, or is it possible with a broken key. And why on earth are the manual transmission ignition barrels like $200 new with a set of keys and the automatic ones are $900?

 

Oops. The key mechanisms are complicated. Shift interlock, Key-in switch, anti-theft, anti-removal while driving, illumination. I was tempted to remove all the little brass risers/springs and just use a screwdriver, or any old key. The old keys get worn down so they don't move the risers correctly and stick in the slots to prevent turning. Finally just filed the risers down with the key in position, like other Forum folks do. Takes a bit of disassembly to get to that point.