Read more you will see what actually fixed the problem with pics

 

ok...I see all that...
but that's nothing anyone with half a brain couldn't do.


I already rebuilt my fuel sending unit. Fixed my non-working gas gauge. removed and cleaned every component involved in the air intake system. replaced the PCV hoses. refashioned the air-box. changed the front shocks and re-welded strut towers. re-wired the rear window switches. chased down a bad ground that was blowing the tach fuse. reinstalled a new rear sunroof engine and resealed the sunroof.


I mean, you're not special...anything you have done short of body work doesn't take skill. I spent about 5 hours a day for 10 days reading a lot of literature online before trying any sort of fix on my engine.


I rebuilt my fuel sending unit with NO prior knowledge of Land Rover short of what I had read. As well as all the other work I have put into it.


Maybe you don't agree with what I did to fix my Rover till I can get an ECU reset. But that doesn't mean its wrong. it may help someone in a similar situation that needs their Rover to run for a while till they can reset their ECU. its not going to mess up any electronics. it may cause my engine to run a little rich, but I'm sure it will be fine. its better than running at 3000rpms.


I came to this forum to help myself find a way to fix my Rover without taking it to the mechanic. And I did it. I know I need to get the ECU reset, and I will. I have read in enough places to know that is the right way to do it.


Just because you don't like it or approve doesn't mean you have to such a bitch about it. Grow the hell up.

 

Fyi running rich will ruin the cats and possibly the 02 I suggest not letting it go long, having a high idle in this cold can kill the engine, la k of oil pressure in morning at initial start while the oil is thick, hope you went to a thinner oil this winter

if that sensor craps out like mine you will need a fuel sender I to rebuilt my first one

Trying to turn or "adjust " the IACV on our year range may result in your buying a new one when you get around to the ecm reset

Feels good when you no longer have to work on it after beating your head on the wall so long, after years I am finally code free thanks in part to the huge amount of knowledge here, I used to be a Buick tech I build cars from frames but this thing makes no sense some times

 

see..that was helpful...not spite-ful.


I did switch to a lighter oil. I have been using an OBD-II tool I bought from harbor freight to monitor the system. My o2 sensors are reading ok for now. I did replace my IACV when I finally figured out it was the problem. but without the ecu reset it did the same thing. when turned off my IACV was setting back to a good position. so i just disconnected it when i was off so i didn't have to manually turn it or adjust it.
I have tweaked it down so I am running about 690rpms in gear and about 780 in park or neutral. my throttle position is set to 18.4 at idle. I imagine it should be closer to 0.0 when idling. but it is only ever so slightly more tension in my throttle tensioner. I'm sure my cats are already bad. But we have no emissions test in Ohio, yay!
it does run a little rough at first when cold, especially when it got down to about -10 air temp a couple of weeks ago. but I run in for about a minute with my foot on the pedal ever so slightly to keep it idling, and once it warms up it runs great.


its not something I am going to use as a permanent fix. but I may look into fashioning a manually adjustable iacv that can be set to cold start and running conditions.


im no mechanic nor do I have the money to pay one every time my Disco goes on the fritz. but I do my best to gather the knowledge and know-how to diagnose and fix my issues myself.

 

Just so everyone knows, this member has now been made aware of to our admins for obvious reasons. Because I cannot say or do what I'd like to (on this site) I hope that you guys and gals do the same for our new uninformed member. I ask that you do not respond any longer to their posts and that you follow up as I have by using the yellow triangle in the upper right hand corner to make sure this doesn't continue. I don't have to take this, nor do you! Do it right......

 

lol...wwaaahhh..the only way you were brought into the conversation was by making crude posts to me and making suggestions that I should "suck your...". Remember that?


the admins do.

 

Thanks, I didn't know that's what the yellow triangle was for.

 

You may also have a TPS issue it should be around 12%, you should never turn the IACV by hand TPS may also have a problem, either way in the end no matter what you do get an Indy shop to reset the ecm, think mine was done with an all makes scanner? Hawk eye and the one sold by ab also work, they are resetting the base idle reference values for the TPS and IACV , in the gems these are not adaptive values like the later systems, also need those scanners to program in the key less remotes

in this cold do not run 15w/40 rotella use the think it is 10w/ 30 or40 rotella one is $ and synthetic other is dino

 

OK. I'll Check into that. There is actually a Land Rover dealer about 20mins away. I just haven't had the $$$ to get the reset. I would think that at 18.4 with a little tension that it would be somewhere close to 12 if I had a functioning IACV. I never had a chance to check everything when it was running right.

I thought maybe the TPS but a buddy of mine hooked up his Solus and he said everything seems to be running within its parameters except for the IACV. And originally after the first time I cleaned the IACV it ran fine for about an hour. But upon sitting for a while and restarting, the high idle returned.

It was only after going over everything else that it occurred to me it could be a stepper motor problem.

I removed it and observed its function while still plugged to its power source. I saw that as soon as the car got power it was opening the valve to its max value.

At one point while removed. The screw extended to such a point that the entire IACV popped apart. That freaked me out. But I soon realized I could put it back together.

It is nice to have it running better. A sigh of relief. When I get my taxes back I'll be getting the ecu reset and possibly replacing the IACV and TPS. And looking into a keyless entry remote. All I got with mine was 2 keys.

 

IACV off say a jeep is cheap and will fit just clocked off for plug, I would look for an independent shop for rovers, dealer will probly want around $200 mine was done for $25 but I drove 2 hours, if the IACV came apart even though you reassembled it strong suggestion to replace just before the reset

I have seen guys say slot the TPS holes to adjust like the older ones were, do not do this also do not try to adjust the base setting on the throttle plates or drill out the tin plug to adjust IACV air flow, dealer did this to mine cause they could not reset ecm and it cost me a plenum