Yes I've done plenty of brake jobs, but I suppose it doesn't hurt saying it. The only issue is this is the only one I've done where I've had to pre-order everything. That's why I'm being over-analytical.

 

At first I was skeptical about these calipers since everybody else's was so darn expensive but now that I have them I'm glad I could save $20-$30 here and there without having to worry about quality

 

Well if the originals are crap, it should be easy to make an imitation, right?

J/K

 

Haha true! But I still need to replace my front ones. I have a lot to deal with when it comes to Claire.
Front diff
All wheel bearings
Front track rod ends
Front brake calipers
All 4 rotors

then I gotta figure out why my CDL wont lock!
SO MUCH TO DO SO LITTLE TIME!

 

I was refering to the drive flange paper gasket, item 2 in the second view on the attached RN page:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...-assembly.aspx

 

While you're at it, find a junked Land Cruiser with 4.11 gears and snag both front and rear differentials. Then buy the adapter kit and install your new Toyota 1-ton diffs! After that, you'll want to lift it a couple inches (springs first, shocks can be a few months later) and run 32s... Totally what I would do if I had any diff work to do whatsoever, except that I already have the lift and tires. I'm really not even joking, it's a legitimate mod which opens up a whole new world of possibilities...

PS, the 93-97 LCs had a factory option for an electronic locking differential, which makes the swap even more appealing.

 

I already ordered the front diff from paul grant (DM's friend) for $135. I have no idea what the gear ratio has to do with anything (16, and I DON'T know it all :P). Before I do a lift or anything I want to make sure everything is mechanically sound. So diff, bearings, track rods, calipers, rotors, and everything else first. Take it as they come I have to make this work mechanically and financially till I graduate high school haha, I'm young and on a limited budget. Plus the scrap yards here suck.. I can go search around still I guess. Land Cruiser hunting beginning tmr

 

Differential gear ratio is the final drive reduction before the wheels. So your transmission will be spinning 3 or 4 times faster than the axles. A lower gear ratio (higher numerically) means you will have better throttle response when running large tires. It also is less taxing on the engine and transmission, i.e. it gives you more leverage or mechanical advantage. You don't technically need to re-gear to run 32s, but it sure would make it feel more powerful.

Yeah, what I'm describing with the Toyota diffs would throw off your speedometer slightly, but would make the truck feel more powerful. It would limit your top speed, but you really shouldn't drive these very fast anyway. Switching from the stock 3.55s to 4.10s in my Ford made a world of difference, hence me itching to do the same in the Rover. But yeah, basics first, if you can get a rover diff for $135 then by all means, do it. It will get you by and is totally adequate for stock tires.

The Toyota diffs are simply a reasonable way to get $2000 or $3000 worth of differential parts for closer to a grand. Lucky 8 sells the adapter kit, you'd want to confirm the LC diffs are the ones that bolt to it.

Didn't realize you are so young, haha. Reminds me, I bought a broken-down Nissan Sentra when I was 17, did all the work myself, and still own the car 8 years later. Wife drives it every day to work and it runs like a top (1989, 183k miles). I can only imagine how much better of a mechanic I would be if I had started on a Rover, haha. Way to be conscientious, man, I wish more teenagers did their own auto repairs, or at least understood the true cost of a car.

 

My work ranges from Acura Integras, Honda Preludes and civics, to Toyota Corollas, and Mitsubishi Eclipses. I also worked on a G35 at one point. But I am still such a beginner at all of this haha. So does re-gearing help that much? I was reading up on car remapping, which basically I think is the fuel/air ratio is standardized for the world market for emissions and gas consumption. So independent entrepreneurs, I guess I would call them, remap and re-ratio those factors to meet your country, daily, and performance needs. But I haven't really seen of it done personally so I am kind of wary about trying a product that I have no experience with, for example the VOLO chip that was on the "INCREASED GAS MILAGE!" thread. I have experience racing cars and tinkering with performance parts to a small extent, and by no means would I call myself a mechanic or anything like that because my learning was jumping around from turbo chargers, to headers, to oil changes, etc.

 

Wheels bearings only need to be serviced every time you do the brakes.
The rotors are solid, they do not warp unless they have been abused.
Leave them alone.
Do the wheel bearings since you do not know when they were last done.
As for the caliper, you can try and free it buy pushing it back with a pry bar.
If it wont move you will need a new one, brake parts should always be replaced in pairs, so if you replace one caliper you should do the other as well.
Personally I would do the wheel bearings, reuse the rotors without turning them, push that caliper back and install your AutoZone brake pads.
If your caliper sticks again then buy 2 new calipers and once your brake pad is worn again replace both calipers and then get new brake pads under warranty.
I had a stuck caliper on the front, pushed it back, installed new Duralast brake pads and that was almost a year ago and i have not had any more problems.
Brakes pads work great, calipers work fine and my rotors are fine with almost 100k on them.