Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

rear main seal on discovery leaking

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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 04:55 PM
  #31  
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to separate the engine and transmission would you take the torque converter with the engine or is there some way to stop the engine from turning over to undo the bolts onto the converter?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 06:20 PM
  #32  
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Turn the motor with breaker bar (or socket wrench with plugs removed) on the crank pulley bolt. Then you can align the torque converter bolts and remove them from the flywheel.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 06:37 PM
  #33  
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well the bolts are out and the engine is out one bolt felt as if it was going to snap but it didn't still would like to know how to best stop the motor from turning as i have to put them in again yet


next is there a specific tool that is best to remove the rocker cover bolts?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 08:05 PM
  #34  
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12 point socket 1/4" drive

Hold motor by sticking a big screwdriver or pry bar in the teeth of the flywheel/flex plate

Be careful to NOT bend the tabs on the plate between flywheel and crank, those are the pickups for the crank sensor
 
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 05:51 PM
  #35  
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i have removed the engine, what is the process for getting to the rear main seal? i have removed all the plates at the back of the engine up to and including the one that bolts on with the 4 bolts what do i do now?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2014 | 09:40 PM
  #36  
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Look at my thread there's pics

You should now see the back of the crankshaft, big round seal pop it out, pry it out carefully

Clean area, lube crank and inside of seal and instal

Get the seal started then tap it in
 
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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #37  
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do you have a copy of the rave?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 12:33 PM
  #38  
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Do not follow rave directions for rear main seal , it says remove the bearing cap, guys that have done this have had that bearing go bad after, just pop it out and instal the new
 
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 03:53 PM
  #39  
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so i am still dismantleing and cleaning big end bearings are shot but the heads were ok so it looks like someone re did the heads but didn't do anything to the bottom end.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 04:09 PM
  #40  
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If the crank is smooth I would throw in a new set of bearings, use a ridge reamer on the cylinders hone and new rings

Or since its apart get a 4.6 crank and rods, wish I had
 
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