Here's what I've done so far with no luck.

 

This is the test for both rear windows not working from the RAVE electrical troubleshooting manual. I understand all of it except what the box in the test line would be? I'm guessing I should just take a test wire and connect the D to the E wires on the back of that multiplug in the window ecu while disconnected.

Since my last post, the only progress is that now the front drivers window is out of commission as well, stuck down. The blower motor is not working which apparently also means the fuel filler flap won't operate. And I keep popping the AC 30 amp fuse.

Fun times!!

 

Sit rep:

Did the test from the RAVE manual. The box in the line (above diagram) is apparently a fuse, didn't have that so just used a piece of wire. Connected terminal D to E and bingo, rear windows work. Disconnected that test wire and they still work, don't know why but I'm not complaining.
Decided to take the AB spliced in bypass wire out, resoldered everything back to normal and that cured the blower motor and fuel filler flap.
All is back to normal now except for that the drivers window is non functioning and is fully open.
I guess I'll do the similar test from the RAVE electrical troubleshooting for that one and hope all will be well.

I've read a lot of threads on here which helped a ton! Thanks everyone.

 

Bump for an old thread. My issue is the same as the OP's, no White/Green wire on connector C2703. Is the point to supply power or ground to the White/Pink wire that was previously attached to the C288 connector?

 

Power, not a Ground.
If no White/Green wire look for a UR (Blue/Red) from C2073

 

Thanks! I ended up using the diagram in Post #12 and a test light to determine it needed power. Did some more pokingwith the test light and arrived at the conclusion I needed to tap the Blue/Red wire. Good to know I got the right one!

 

having same problem with my 97 d1,removed circuit board twice and soldered but keeps happening,don't really like idea of cutting wires [ electrically challenged!],funny thing is that at times after truck is warm they'll work,then sometimes never! anyone have a pic of the jumper wire soldering points on board,might try that,if not i might try the pink/white to green/white splice [or red/blue if no green/white wire] also did you just put a jump wire in the connector plug when testing?and does that work with plug disconnected from ecu box?thanks in advance,sorry just reread post! so after using wire [d to e] and testing rear windows you just plugged connector back in and windows still worked?

 

Look for a replacement circuit board on Ebay or from one of the many guys in here that have parts. then at least you have a spare to work on with the good one in place. The working when warm points to a solder joint on the board that is likely cracked.

 

thanks,today got in it started cold and they worked and then intermittant,it must be a ground thing but will look for board,since it's doing it off and on my thinking is the solder job i did twice should have worked [at different times] but who knows! i just thought that it might have a bad ground,appreciate imput

 

It might also be your switch in the center console try the connector on the front switch and see if that works if that does just take apart the rear switch and clean the contacts.