Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

rear windows

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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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Captian Adrianus's Avatar
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From: Arizona desert
Default rear windows

OK. i have read numerous threads on pulling out the window ECM in order to re-solder the connections for the rear windows to work. My question is....how on earth do you get the board out? i have removed the glove box and i can see the ECM with the 2 wire connectors on it but, I cant figure out how to pull out the board. Any suggestions?

It's on a 1995 Disco with the 3.9 with A/C.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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filbs's Avatar
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"Repair a Land Rover Discovery electric window ECU to make the rear windows open again"

This is what helped me
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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slanginsanjuan's Avatar
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what about a bypass. that was much easier.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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Captian Adrianus's Avatar
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that link helped a lot. i got the board out and low and behold.....the solder point in the picture is the exact point on my board that is clearly broken. unfortunately, my soldering iron seems to have gone missing....so when i get a new one i am certain the rear windows will be operational.

Thank you for that link.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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what is the bypass? I'm looking into doing this fix soon.


thanks,
jastutte
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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XCELLER8's Avatar
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From: sackets harbor, ny
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the bypass involves installing a jumper wire from the window ecu harness to another nearby connector. PM me if you want and I'll email you a sketch I made to speed the process along...
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 01:59 AM
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fishEH's Avatar
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AB actually sells a bypass kit. It's basically a vampire clip and a length of wire.
Detailed instructions here:
Land Rover Defender
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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Some others that have installed the bypass have reported that it resulted in other problems instead of only fixing the existing problem.

You can easily unplug the connector, grab the edge of the printed circuit board with needlenose pliers and pull it straight out of the enclosure that houses it. The enclosure has a screw that is almost impossible to remove, but the board will come out rather easily.

That kit from AB is the most expensive price I have ever seen for a few inches of wire. It is a bastardized "fix" and not a true repair.

On mine there were two bad solder joint, one wa not as obviou at first, but lightly applying a little finger tip pressure to the leads showed the failed joint as the lead would raise away from the board. I reflowed all of them and mine has worked fine for the last five years.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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fishEH's Avatar
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Danny, what are the other problems that arose? I agree that the AB kit is overpriced. However, AB is pretty good and I doubt they would sell a kit that causes problems.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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The resolder suggestion is the best fix. It was simple and quick. Amazingly easy! A Weller battery ir butane soldering iron is a great tool to keep in the onboard tool kit. They can come in handy!
 
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