rear windows
OK. i have read numerous threads on pulling out the window ECM in order to re-solder the connections for the rear windows to work. My question is....how on earth do you get the board out? i have removed the glove box and i can see the ECM with the 2 wire connectors on it but, I cant figure out how to pull out the board. Any suggestions?
It's on a 1995 Disco with the 3.9 with A/C.
It's on a 1995 Disco with the 3.9 with A/C.
"Repair a Land Rover Discovery electric window ECU to make the rear windows open again"
This is what helped me
This is what helped me
that link helped a lot. i got the board out and low and behold.....the solder point in the picture is the exact point on my board that is clearly broken. unfortunately, my soldering iron seems to have gone missing....so when i get a new one i am certain the rear windows will be operational.
Thank you for that link.
Thank you for that link.
AB actually sells a bypass kit. It's basically a vampire clip and a length of wire.
Detailed instructions here:
Land Rover Defender
Detailed instructions here:
Land Rover Defender
Some others that have installed the bypass have reported that it resulted in other problems instead of only fixing the existing problem.
You can easily unplug the connector, grab the edge of the printed circuit board with needlenose pliers and pull it straight out of the enclosure that houses it. The enclosure has a screw that is almost impossible to remove, but the board will come out rather easily.
That kit from AB is the most expensive price I have ever seen for a few inches of wire. It is a bastardized "fix" and not a true repair.
On mine there were two bad solder joint, one wa not as obviou at first, but lightly applying a little finger tip pressure to the leads showed the failed joint as the lead would raise away from the board. I reflowed all of them and mine has worked fine for the last five years.
You can easily unplug the connector, grab the edge of the printed circuit board with needlenose pliers and pull it straight out of the enclosure that houses it. The enclosure has a screw that is almost impossible to remove, but the board will come out rather easily.
That kit from AB is the most expensive price I have ever seen for a few inches of wire. It is a bastardized "fix" and not a true repair.
On mine there were two bad solder joint, one wa not as obviou at first, but lightly applying a little finger tip pressure to the leads showed the failed joint as the lead would raise away from the board. I reflowed all of them and mine has worked fine for the last five years.


