Replacing steering damper
After experiencing the "deadly shakes" on the highway (nearly rolled the Disco1) I found the welds of the threaded pin of the damper had failed. I've been driving it on sideroads since and just received the new unit from AB complete with new washers, nyloc nuts and bushing (10% discount for preferred customer, thanks LRF!).
Now SWMBO needs the car today so I've got to install it right after work.
I'm concerned about priming the damper.
Do I have to? What's the procedure?
What's the torque for the nylocs since the OE were just twin nuts?
SD
Now SWMBO needs the car today so I've got to install it right after work.
I'm concerned about priming the damper.
Do I have to? What's the procedure?
What's the torque for the nylocs since the OE were just twin nuts?
SD
Last edited by Soccer Dad; May 11, 2011 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Lapse in spelling
You're way off track (no pun intended) on your steering issues.
Forget the damper for now and fix the actual steering problem(s).
Never replace a steering damper to "fix" steering problems, that's not what they are for. If your steering components are in good shape, you don't even need a damper for highway and around town driving. You don't even need one for off-roading.
You need to be looking at your:
Hub bearings
steering box (needs adjustment or is shot or mounting bolts are loose)
ball joints (tie rod ends)
front suspension bushings
swivel pin pre-load
Based on the description of the degree of your problem, I'd never let my wife drive it in it's current condition, new damper or not.
Forget the damper for now and fix the actual steering problem(s).
Never replace a steering damper to "fix" steering problems, that's not what they are for. If your steering components are in good shape, you don't even need a damper for highway and around town driving. You don't even need one for off-roading.
You need to be looking at your:
Hub bearings
steering box (needs adjustment or is shot or mounting bolts are loose)
ball joints (tie rod ends)
front suspension bushings
swivel pin pre-load
Based on the description of the degree of your problem, I'd never let my wife drive it in it's current condition, new damper or not.
Thanks. I put on the damper (SuperGaz) and she drove it.... Shortly after she was back saying something was wrong.
So I took her to the conference and yes the shakes are still there but the damper absorbs them and all is well... or may be not.
The car didn't have any shakes before the big "event" about 400 km ago.
The shaking is triggered by pot holes and it's ok under 80km/h, bad under 100km/h and suicidal over 110km/h
The front left tire seems more prone to initiate the shaking.
The lug nuts are tight.
I checked the tie-end rods joints by compressing them with very large channel lock pliers, only one has a slight "give", the others are nice and tight.
Wheeles are balanced but I'll try another set tomorrow.
I'm out of ideas.
SD
So I took her to the conference and yes the shakes are still there but the damper absorbs them and all is well... or may be not.
The car didn't have any shakes before the big "event" about 400 km ago.
The shaking is triggered by pot holes and it's ok under 80km/h, bad under 100km/h and suicidal over 110km/h
The front left tire seems more prone to initiate the shaking.
The lug nuts are tight.
I checked the tie-end rods joints by compressing them with very large channel lock pliers, only one has a slight "give", the others are nice and tight.
Wheeles are balanced but I'll try another set tomorrow.
I'm out of ideas.
SD
The steering damper went bad because it was dampening the death wobble. It is not designed for that sort of dampening. It is only there to stop bump steer. If you have a death wobble, fix the bearings, swivel pins, ball joints, whatever you wanna call them. The damper will need replaced again soon if you don't.
Tom, my apologies.
I read your reply on an i-phone and missed the second part of your correct reply.
I lifted the front and the front left was "loose". I opened up to check the bearings and the nuts were loose! I had a bad outer bearing there and went to a local import specialist recommended by many. I even supplied him with printouts from the RAVE.
I guess I should have checked out his work!
I just came back from a 20K test drive and everything seems fine both over 120km/h and above 80Km/h on rough roads.
Say Tom, as an apology, you interested in a Zippo with the Land Rover embossed on it? Never used. The plastic display case needs renewing.
SD
I read your reply on an i-phone and missed the second part of your correct reply.
I lifted the front and the front left was "loose". I opened up to check the bearings and the nuts were loose! I had a bad outer bearing there and went to a local import specialist recommended by many. I even supplied him with printouts from the RAVE.
I guess I should have checked out his work!
I just came back from a 20K test drive and everything seems fine both over 120km/h and above 80Km/h on rough roads.
Say Tom, as an apology, you interested in a Zippo with the Land Rover embossed on it? Never used. The plastic display case needs renewing.
SD
I don't know if the offer is still good or not, but if it is I'll let you decide. You can take in to account that I don't smoke and you could probably sell it to someone who does.
That said, I do collect Land Rover related things (much to my wife's dismay, but she feeds the addiction also so she can't complain too much LOL) and it would be a nice addition and will be appreciated.
So, given that, just let me know.
A steering damper has a primary job of keeping the wheel from breaking your thumb when you hit a big rock or pothole. It will cover up some other steering problems for a short while, while they continue to wear and become worse. In the dance with the Death Wobble running with / without did not make much difference on mine, which came from the six previous owners without one.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Apr 9, 2012 at 06:12 AM.


