So finally got my truck back together, start it up and it jumps up to 3000 rpm and won't come down. Turned it off. Tried again. Same thing. Followed throttle linkage and don't see any problems. I've posted a list of everything I have done since it was last started so maybe someone can give me some suggestions to trouble shoot:

- Changd trans filter and fluid, diff fluids, transfer case fluid, oil.
- took off exhaust to get to trans - had to disconnect an 02 sensor to get the exhaust out of the way but remembered to put it back on
- took off air filter housing thing to clean throttle body (but didn't do anything since it was clean)
- replaced cv joints and related bearings (doesn't seem relevant)
- Replaced brake rotors, calipers and pads (again not really relevant)
- replaced plugs and wires but started afterward with no issues so I don't thinkthis is the issue.

I really want to drive this thing. Please help.

 

IACV, possible engine coolant temp sensor. Most likely IACV, any vac lines off?

 

I presume you have ensured throttle linkage has no problems?

I had a couple of Wide Open Throttle situations that turned out to be the piece that goes thru the bracket had basically come apart such that it made the throtle bind and would not allow it to return to idle.

Check that out and the cruise control diaphram and mechanism that attaches to the throttle, just to rule that portion out.

 

Vacuum leak.

 

Does the rave show where all the vacuum lines are? I've got black hoses hanging off the wazoo under my engine bay lol

 

Here you go, and remeber that vac lines that are part of cruise control do not conect to engine, they are a separate system that should not be cross conected.

 

Bingo. Found this about 30 mind after my post. The throttle cable had come disconnected from this bracket - so much so that I didn't know that it was supposto go in the bracket!

All fixed. And now after 6 months, my Rover is on the road!

Thanks all for all the help in letting me get it there.

 

I was in local traffic when mine suddenly went wide open throttle in gear. I slammed on brakes, swerved into a alley an then into a big parking lot and went into N when it tached way up there. I switched it off and popped the hood and did not immediately see why. I started it up but had to immediately switch it off.

Manually working the linkage quickly revealed the problem. I was able to get it functioning good enough to safely get home. Even though it is not supposed to be an idle adjustment per the RAVE, it certainly does function as one.

When everything is working properly, the O2's provide the input to the ECU when regulates the precise injection timing, yada yada yada. It can even vary duration of squirt for each individual cylinder. But if that linkage is hosed all the normal stuff goes out the window.

Turning that nut in one direction increases idle rpm's and the other direction decreases it.

I wish there was a simple override for the air/fuel mixture.

 

I wish there was a simple override for the air/fuel mixture.

Retro conversion to carbs - like we had in high school... or see http://www.urdusa.com/Electronics-Re...170/index.html

 

Hi
I wonder if there is someone out there who in simple terms could compile a list of possible solutions and locations. One would think even Rover could do this as it seems to be a world wide problem alonf with the over heating problem
Regards David