I had the top half of my engine rebuilt and all was well until a few weeks ago when I noticed my Disco I burning oil like crazy. There's no oil on the ground or visibly on the engine so I was told it is probably my rings/pistons from putting new on top of old..

Also, I just had my spark plugs replaced and my mechanic said the plugs were covered with oil and now that they have been replaced the engine seems to be running smoother now so I wonder if the rings are responsible for the oil on the plugs?

I was told to put something called Restore in the oil to see if it will help rebuild and close some gaps, etc..

Any ideas on what I can do? Not trying to go through another rebuild...

 

Had a similar issue. Don't add anything inside the engine that shouldn't be there with the snake oils that are peddled.

First, check the Oil Pressure Relieve Valve O-Ring. It is beside the oil filter in a small and almost un-noticeable spot. It honestly takes a mechanic 15 minutes to replace, and by that I mean, put the vehicle on the hoist/lift, spot it, pry it out, replace a $0.10 o-ring, and pop it in. The size is a 19mm x 1.5mm o-ring.

That little o-ring about the size of a dime was the culprit behind a lot of oil disappearing even after my top end was re-built.

Also, what viscosity oil are you using? Before I fixed that the thinner oils seems to disappear faster.

Here's a thread to give you an idea of where it is and what it is.

 

You are so right. I was using oil that was too thin. I followed the advice on this forum and started purchasing Rotella-T 15W 40. but it is still disappearing but not as fast since I switched to the thicker oil.

I will check out the thread, thanks a bunch. This was a great help..

 

There are some pretty amazing people on this forum, and without their time, help, and care I would still be stumped on a lot of issues.

If I could buy most of the people that have helped me over the years a drink (or two, or three, or four!), I would do so in a heart beat.

People like DiscoMike, Tom R, Savannah Buzz, Magna Defender, CUpgt, Spike555, FishEH, and a few more have all been super helpful, patient and friendly over the years!

 

Agreed!! And just for the sake of detail, when you say 19MM you mean outside diameter, correct? I checked a few sites for the Viton o-rings and they are saying 19MM outside diameter and 16MM inside diameter--please confirm, thanks!

 

Hey Archaeology, wanted to give you a quick update. I went by Jiffy Lube to get my drive shaft and U joints greased and at first they told me $19.95 and then when the guy went into the floor area under the truck he said that he doesn't have the adapter to shoot the grease into those parts! He said they would have to order one.

Also, he had me go through a car wash twice to clean off the under carriage so he could determine where the oil is leaking from. He said the wash didn't do much good but it looks like oil is leaking from all of these:

1) Oil Pan Gasket
2) Differential Gaskets (Both)
3) Transmission Pan Gasket
4) Rear Main Oil Seal

I asked him how many of those he could fix and he said none and that I would have to go to an NTB or Pep Boys or somewhere that does engine work.

I showed him the o-ring picture from this website for the relief valve and he said it's coming from there as well..

 

Also guys, any idea on how much all of those costs and could you rank them on easiest to hardest to fix or replace?

 

All except the rear main seal can be done in your driveway at home, rear main seal requires engine to be removed to be replaced.

 

Awe man, OK, thanks loanrangie!

 

1 Rear Main
2 Trans pan
3 Diff seals
4 Oil pan

The rear main is by far the most costly to have someone replace. The engine and transmission need be separated and drive plate removed from crank shaft back side to remove/replace seal. Unless your staining a driveway it's much much cheaper in the short and long run to keep your oil level topped up.

Trans pan is just a pain but will cost extra because the frame cross member and exhaust need to be moved to get to it. Usually it's a good idea to change the trans filter at that point unless you have high mileage then it's better to just leave it alone. Do not let them talk you into changing the filter and fluid unless you know for certain your trans has been serviced (filter/fluid) regularly.

Diff seals are easy once the driveline hardware is removed but again is sort of costly because of the labor. Cheap part + high labor = not worth it. Just keep them topped up with fluid.

Oil pan is a "Right Stuff" fix, the cork gasket is largely a waste of time and money, it will start leaking within a week.

I thought it was funny you asked a lube shop if they could do this work. They squirt lube and have like one socket wrench....... they're not certified mechanics. Your previous plus one on the side repeater fender pull out with the FOB just went back to zero......