You don't want IFP. They are like stock replacements. I run 12" factory series all around but I had to build some mean front towers and modify raised rear mounts to put them dawn near in the floor. I would go 10" front and 11" rear.

 

These are the shocks I run.
POLY PERFORMANCE OFF-ROAD PARTS :: Shocks & Accessories :: Shocks :: Fox Offroad Shocks :: Fox 2.0" :: Fox 2.0" Smooth Body Emulsion Shock, 5/8" Shaft
If you go PolyPerformance give them a cal when ordering because they just about always will beat their online price. I also had them valve my shocks and install the Eibach shock shaft bumpstops.

 

Yea Ive bought quite a few things from poly and have always been satisfied with them as far as pricing goes pretty chill guys to talk to as well. are you still running the stock mounts in the rear to fit those 12s or did you extend them?

 

I have raised RTE upper mounts that I drilled to raise them a little more. Ian and I are running almost identical setups. We built our trucks around the same time and bounced ideas off eachother.
12" shocks don't leave a ton of uptravel even with custom upper mounts. Its fine for rock crawling and driving but if you like the whoopdiwoos then you'll want a shorter shock with more uptravel.

 

Gotcha Ill probably do 11s all around then just to get a bit more travel I dont do jumps but things do get pretty bouncy on the beach from time to time

 

I'm pretty much running the same setup as they are with the Fox 2.0's and will second what they have been saying. They are a great shock and I would spend the extra $ to get the better ones. Make sure to get the correct valving though. I think I'm running something like 90/100 in the rear and 85/90 in the front. So far that has worked really well for me.

I would say the biggest difference for me is with my rear shock mounts. I actually cut holes in the rear floor and extended the mounts up about 1" above the floor. that gives me about 4" of up travel on the 12" shocks. But I also raised the axle side mounts around 1-1.5" for better clearance under the axle.

I got my shocks from Lucky 8. It was about $10 per shock more than other vendors but I got the valving how I wanted and was supporting a Rover parts vendor.

 

I'd love to see some pics.

I also took the advice of some long time Rover guys and had PolyPerformance install the Eibach bumps and bumpstop ring when they valved them. It added a bit of cost to the shock but I wanted them done right the first time.
POLY PERFORMANCE OFF-ROAD PARTS*::*Eibach Micro Cellular Foam Shaft Bump Stop

 

not necessarily. IFP means there gas and oil are separated, which IMHO, is better for DDing and general use over an emulsion shock that has the gas and oil mixed. with an emulsion shock, the oil can cavitate faster and create shock fade, and in off camber situations can "lose" valving. that being said, my buddy has fox emulsions in his LJ (they were cheaper than resis) and hasnt noticed anything negative... he also has only run cheapo white body shocks in every other rig he has had.

old man emu, bilstein 5100s, monroe monotubes... all IFP shocks.

 

Doug18, if I may make a recommendation.....
Buy your springs and tires first and install them. Take measurements on height and how much wheel arch room you have. Take out your shocks and possibly springs and cycle the axles. Figure out how much room you have to work with. That will give you hard numbers on collapsing and extended shock length. Figure out if you need/want to make any mods to run longer shocks. Figure out what you're doing for bumpstops. Figure out if you want cones or retainers in the rear, there's pros and cons to both. I would recommend cones in the front .

Once you go 3" things become more complicated and it's a bit of a juggling act to make everything play together nicely.

 

Justin is great but Downsouth Motorsports hooked it up on my Fox 2.0s