Hello, I was suggested to post this in the D1 forum as I had no response for over a week in the RRC forum. Would love opinions on this! 1993 Range Rover county LWB 4.2

"Hello, I have been troubleshooting a hard start issue and could use some assistance.

Engine runs smooth and strong at idle and under load. No strong exhaust smells.
very hard to start... takes 4-5 attempts with various number of cranks. Usually between 5-10 seconds to get it to fire up. doesn't matter if its hot or cold.

• ignition amp 1 year old. connectors and grounds look ok
• cap looks fine
• new rotor
• wires one year old
• battery voltage tested fine but not tested for cranking amps.
• battery grounds cleaned
• battery hot lead may show a little age
• oil level ok
• i can hear fuel pump priming when in AC mode, and relay click every time
• coil 1 year old Lucas brand i believe. connectors clean and tight
• starter seems to sound strong
• when in ac mode attempting to let the fuel pump run for a few seconds to get it to fire up... mixed results
• one of the injector connectors was so worn the wire casing cracked off... MAY have shorted on injector 1... repaired... I will test for voltage at this injector
• squeezed the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator in attempt to keep some fuel in the rail and re-start. no change.

thought initially the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator, but again, the car runs fine when i finally get the engine to fire up.
I have also heard that the fuel temp sensor may be a culprit. I unplugged it and attempted a start up. no change when its plugged in or not.
My next step to look at the connections to the starter. but again it sounds strong.

I have read through several forums here, but many have similar issues AND rough idle/ stalling or these symptoms only when hot or cold.

thanks in advance for the input. ill check back.

thanks,

Steve

 

So this has the 14CUX "hotwire" EFI, right??? not the older flapper system?

Get Rovergauge - the only way to see what is happening when it is running, it's free, you just have to build or buy a cable (I made mine, and piggy backed wires from the original plug, into my own interface plug)

Have you put a meter or small bulb onto the injector terminals, to see if they fire during cranking?

Does it spark well at the plugs while cranking?

You need to determine if both spark and fuel are present during cranking and if they are, do a compression test. Starting anywhere else will send you on a wild goose chase.

 

A long shot here but...
If the fuel injectors are leaking fuel into the cylinders after the motor is off, you could be flooding them and on restart., it will have too much fuel until it dries out a bit.
Might try getting a fuel pressure gauge you can leave on and see what it does after shutting off the motor. (see if pressure drops to zero)

 

Here's what I did to my '94 to get it to start quick (no cost items first):
1. Ensured CO trim pot voltage (at MAF) is about 1.8 V (factory setting, higher voltage seems to start quicker)
2. Set base timing to 7 deg BTDC
3. Set base idle to 525 rpm
4. Changed vacuum advance from ported to manifold source, and ensured vacuum diaphragm is not punctured (this causes initial revs over 1500 rpm)
5. Ensured gap at dizzy pick up is correct at the small end of the range, and cleaned up and lubed centrifugal weights and springs
6. Gapped plugs to 0.050 - 0.055 inch (1.3 - 1.4 mm)
7. New Bosch coil (worked great)
8. Then new Pertronix distributor, with it's own new Flamethrower coil (even better)
9. Used 4-hole injectors from a 1989 Mustang (these worked great)
10. Then new Accel 19#/hr injectors (even better)

Springs to life very quickly now, used to take several long seconds. Careful attention to the ignition system has breathed new life into the old truck.