Rust: Part II
#11
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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I did the Google search and found a good tutorial on Flux Core Welding from Miller.
Miller - Flux-Cored Welding: The Basics for Mild Steel
Like I said, I only took a course many many years ago and only covered the basics, i don't think Flux Core was even addressed. They do say it is a lot more forgiving, but pretty much limited to SURFACE corrosion. If the corrosion is significant, you just do not have good material to weld to.
After all you do need fusion of the metals to achieve a good weld. If one piece is new metal and the other is mostly corrosion, the results will be poor at best.
But a nice patch is better than a big hole I suppose.
How was your visit back home to Hawaii?
Ready for a sweet putter deal yet?
Miller - Flux-Cored Welding: The Basics for Mild Steel
Like I said, I only took a course many many years ago and only covered the basics, i don't think Flux Core was even addressed. They do say it is a lot more forgiving, but pretty much limited to SURFACE corrosion. If the corrosion is significant, you just do not have good material to weld to.
After all you do need fusion of the metals to achieve a good weld. If one piece is new metal and the other is mostly corrosion, the results will be poor at best.
But a nice patch is better than a big hole I suppose.
How was your visit back home to Hawaii?
Ready for a sweet putter deal yet?
#13
Looks like your getting the job done. Only thing you might want to add is a nice weld-through primer to coat the bare steel before you cover it with a patch if you aren't using butt-joints. Not sure how much more rust that prevents, but it must help some. I went through a similar exercise trying to get a 1988 4Runner back together a few years ago. I think they used the same steel supplier as the early Disco's. Check for a good body shop supply in your area for the stuff. Self etching primer over the bare metal before paint is a great idea also.
#14
The remaining stuff will be completed in my old neighbors driveway. The new place is less than a mile away, so driving there with no hood or fenders hasnt been an issue with the five oh yet
#15
I did the Google search and found a good tutorial on Flux Core Welding from Miller.
Miller - Flux-Cored Welding: The Basics for Mild Steel
Like I said, I only took a course many many years ago and only covered the basics, i don't think Flux Core was even addressed. They do say it is a lot more forgiving, but pretty much limited to SURFACE corrosion. If the corrosion is significant, you just do not have good material to weld to.
After all you do need fusion of the metals to achieve a good weld. If one piece is new metal and the other is mostly corrosion, the results will be poor at best.
But a nice patch is better than a big hole I suppose.
How was your visit back home to Hawaii?
Ready for a sweet putter deal yet?
Miller - Flux-Cored Welding: The Basics for Mild Steel
Like I said, I only took a course many many years ago and only covered the basics, i don't think Flux Core was even addressed. They do say it is a lot more forgiving, but pretty much limited to SURFACE corrosion. If the corrosion is significant, you just do not have good material to weld to.
After all you do need fusion of the metals to achieve a good weld. If one piece is new metal and the other is mostly corrosion, the results will be poor at best.
But a nice patch is better than a big hole I suppose.
How was your visit back home to Hawaii?
Ready for a sweet putter deal yet?
Not quite ready for the putter...gotta get the beast put back together first.
Yeah, I shoulda clarified...
You dont need to weld on shiny silver metal, but it cant be 100% rust either.
#16
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Yeah, I don't think they even had the flux core welding when I was in school.
It is amazing to me how badly some of the Disco's do rust completely thru. I have some pretty minor rust issues so far, but I want to get on it before it gets so major.
One good way to evaluate the rusty sections to see how badly the structural integrity has been affected is the good old Ball Peen Hammer Test. Pop the panel a couple of good times with the flat end of the hammer and see if it goes thru the panel or not. It also removes a lot of the loose stuff that is barely hanging on.
For anyone looking at a Disco PRIOR to purchase, I recommend smacking the rear bumper with a good hammer blow and see how falls of the bottom. Also rap the floor panels a couple of times and see if it goes thru or not.
It is amazing to me how badly some of the Disco's do rust completely thru. I have some pretty minor rust issues so far, but I want to get on it before it gets so major.
One good way to evaluate the rusty sections to see how badly the structural integrity has been affected is the good old Ball Peen Hammer Test. Pop the panel a couple of good times with the flat end of the hammer and see if it goes thru the panel or not. It also removes a lot of the loose stuff that is barely hanging on.
For anyone looking at a Disco PRIOR to purchase, I recommend smacking the rear bumper with a good hammer blow and see how falls of the bottom. Also rap the floor panels a couple of times and see if it goes thru or not.
#18
had some rain here last week. Didnt get nearly as much done as I had hoped. SHould have an update this week.
To echo Danny...
Unless you wanna learn to weld, do no think about buying a Disco until you have been on your back and thoroughly checked out the entire undercarriage, every wheel well, and every door frame for rust.
To echo Danny...
Unless you wanna learn to weld, do no think about buying a Disco until you have been on your back and thoroughly checked out the entire undercarriage, every wheel well, and every door frame for rust.