Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

sagging seat & headers

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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 07:07 PM
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wynhd's Avatar
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Default sagging seat & headers

I have a sagging driver seat still, the tie down straps aren't holding it up, weren't the best fix. Can anyone recommend a permafix or where I can get a replacement of the factory hook thingy ( for lack of the proper name ), I called the dealership in Newport and they offered a new seat at the tune of $843.61. I saw a post prior but I am unable to locate it now that Im in need of it for the fix.. Also, I was thinking about putting headers on her, I saw a pair on ebay for a Buick 215, they are long so there will be some modification needed with the exhaust setup I have already in place. My passenger side has a small crack and it was advised to fix before it becomes worse. I priced a new manifold for a lot more than the $219.99 I found the headman headers for. And, before I forget, I have a 94 Disco 1 3.9. Thanks in advance.
 

Last edited by wynhd; Sep 27, 2011 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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Well, no one has to know that you did not pay full price and instead purchased a seat from the salvage yard or a dismantler. Left or right seat should bolt right up, even if it is electric. I paid $22 each for 97 D1 seats. I'm sure you could find a deal on an exhaust manifold as well, not a lot of moving parts. Forget headers, that's for the guys worried about 1/4 mile times. Rover off road is such a wide engine load that you want a broad power band, not a peak at one narrow spot on the tach.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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Cracked exhaust manifold, have it welded shut.
Muffler shop can do it for cheap, if you have a welder you can too.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 09:21 PM
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I am facing the same issues with the seats and have stumbled across this:

Discovery 1 Seat Diaphragm

I know nothing about the product but it seems to be available from several sources here in the US.

I wish I could find seats in the salvage yard that I could use but since the 94 and 95 have different seats from the later Disco; I have been unsuccessful. I found a very nice set of seats in a pull-a-part yard but I am afraid it will be more trouble than it is worth to convert. I actually prefer my manual seats with the upper grab handles. I am thinking of purchasing one of the Exmoor kits and reskinning my seats in the vinyl and cloth that they offer. I may have to start a new thread to see if anyone has experiance with their products.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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If you have a pick-n-pull yard in your area which has Discos, you can snag another seat support thingy (I shoot for passenger seats for obvious reasons). But know that if you get it from anything other than a '94 or '95, then you'll have to swap out four of the eight hooks. It's not the easiest thing to swap, but it's wonderful to have the seat feeling right again once you do. Did mine this summer without any special tools, etc.

X2 on welding the manifold. Headers on these vehicles likely wouldn't be worth the effort and potential headaches (leaks, warped flanges, etc.).
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Cracked manifold can not just be welded as it is cast iron but it is repairable. You need to find a shop that has a powder torch as this basically takes the damaged area back to a molten state and injects a iron powder back into the damaged area and fills the crack. This is a much better repair than brazing or welding.

Here is an article on repairs that describes some of the methods but makes no mention to the powder torch I mentioned. The first time I saw this method used was about 10-15 years ago to restore vintage and rare manifolds where replacement was not an option.

Yesterday's Tractors - A Tinker’s Guide to Manifold Repairs
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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I'd try digging around in the salvage yards for both parts. Our local pick a part place sells seats for $30 no matter what they come out of. The exhaust manifold can be welded but you'd be better off buying one from the junk yard. Headers are pretty much useless on these motors and wont do much at all in the way of power. They do look nice though and if you can get them on the cheap and need new manifolds anyway they're not a bad option.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 12:03 AM
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I have a salvage yard locally but, they jack the price up, the guy I have been dealing lately says I can have the whole seat for $150. And, with the headers, I figured she would breath much better along with my magnaflow cat back setup = lil more power n a throatier sound.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:21 AM
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Go to another yard or contact one of our dismantlers on this forum, I go to 3 u-pul yards and none of them are more than $27 for a seat, even if all leather from a Mercedes or bimwah.

As to sound, remove little muffler at rear, I prefer sound of coins in pocket to extra noise that does not impress other owners (we know what a wimpy engine is under the hood). Lipstick on a pig.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alpinacsi
Cracked manifold can not just be welded as it is cast iron but it is repairable. You need to find a shop that has a powder torch as this basically takes the damaged area back to a molten state and injects a iron powder back into the damaged area and fills the crack. This is a much better repair than brazing or welding.

Here is an article on repairs that describes some of the methods but makes no mention to the powder torch I mentioned. The first time I saw this method used was about 10-15 years ago to restore vintage and rare manifolds where replacement was not an option.

Yesterday's Tractors - A Tinker’s Guide to Manifold Repairs
The average guy likely won't be able to weld it up, true. Since we're not talking about rare, high dollar manifolds here, a welding shop which can do a proper weld would suffice. IIRC (it's been a few years), you have to heat up the repair area, weld it with a special rod (I stick weld), then control/slow the cooling down of the manifold to prevent the repair from cracking. I've done dissimilar metal welding (steel to cast iron) with a purpose-made rod without cracking anything, but never a repair on cast iron solely.

If it were me, I probably wouldn't bother with the welding and just grab one from the boneyard, then swap out. I too have many u-pull-it yards which charge a flat rate for parts - this would sway me away from welding. But if the yards near the OP are price adjusting due to the name, then welding may be cheaper.
 
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