I will throw my 2 cents in and say that I wouldn't use a tire gauge on the system either. It is innaccurate, could damage the valve, and will be worthless afterwards. All you need to do is press the valve and check for a squirt. If you want actual numbers, buy the right tool or have a shop test it.

Using the wrong tools is why your valve failed, in my opinion. Also, some fuel systems run at 80 PSI, so if someone used a tire gauge here and thinks, I will test my other car that way, They will be in for a suprise.

 

I find that this thread has gotten very interesting. Let me make the following clarifications:

1. There is no replacement valve available thru Land Rover as a stand-alone-part.

2. What is on there is considered to be part of the fuel rail system available for around $120.00.

3. It unbolts with a deep 7/16 socket.

4. The "valve" is a metal housing that contains a valve stem seat. I don't think it is any special o-ring or anything of that nature. It is identical to the same thing that is in your tire stems. (remember, they are the ones who "improved" the Discovery when they went to the DII with the sealed u-joints, you think they put a special material in this test port?)

5. Mine failed horribly after following "advice" posted on here multiple times.

6. The engine was cold, so I was not concerned about a fire or explosion.

7. As such, the vehicle was suddenly inoperable.

8. Replacing the valve stem resolved the issue.

If anyone has any definitive reference from Land Rover showing this internal valve stem to be any different from a tire valve stem, PLEASE provide such.

I provided this information as a "Lessons Learned" experience. Also there was no protective cap over the valve since I have owned it. This may have degraded the valve stem.

Yes I also have a concern as to the compatability of the said valve stem with gasoline as was expressed by others herein.

Like I say, If YOU have any definitive design data or evidence of that nature, please bring it forth. Otherwise you are merely expresssing your humble opinions.

Last thing: Probe it carefully.

 

I took apart a valve core, and it appears that the 2 seals are NOT rubber. I do not believe the seals will fail from the gasoline. A tire valve core is probably identical in every way to the fuel rail valve core. I'd probably even bet my Disco on it. I did notice, however, that there are several different color seals on the valve cores. I'd imagine they are to identify different spring tensions, but that is just a guess.

I think it would be wise to carry a few extra valve cores "just in case". Thanks for the shared info Danny Lee.

 

I was thinking an O-ring made out of viton would be better for the fuel system but according to this chart (see link below) teflon is also an option. I think I'm going to pick one up just to be on the safe side.

http://www.schrader-bridgeport.com/i...Id=5&Itemid=59

5 for $5

http://www.amazon.com/Milton-S404-Va.../dp/B000COMXG8

 

As with anything on the internet all "advice" needs to taken with a grain of salt and remember that what works for 1,000 other people may or may not work for you.

 

Guys,

NiteTrain, thanks for the references provided, good stuff.

Today I installed a cap over my test port to keep it clean.

I was going to request that if any of you had one laying around to see what the internal valve stem looked like, I am glad someone was ahead of me on that.

The ones that were given to me were red in color, just like what came out of mine.

I was considering dropping one of my new spares in a small jar of gas just to evaluate any degradation since that is identical to what I currently have installed in there.

I hope my experiences with this may help some of you avoid being stranded in the future if your valve springs a leak. Be gentle with it.

As always, I learned a little while facing this dilema, but it was really just a minor inconvience that could have been a whole lot worse.

Oh Rover Gods, please forgive me for failing to offer sacrifices prior to raisng the hood. Went and bought large quantities of meat to throw on the fire. Must offer sacrifices soon.......................

 

Yeah, I was wondering how it became inoperable all of a sudden... Just put the cap back on...

And as stated, advice from some is just their ideas and is not necessarily the right way to do things. I get frustrated myself when I see things suggested on here. One person suggest, then others remember and suggest to others. Just because a person has a high number of posts does not mean they know what they are talking about. That used to be my signature...

 

Oh wait, it became inoperable from using the wrong tool on it, according to you're prior post.

If I state I have used a tire gauge for fuel psi, that means I have, with no ill effects. I would not tell something I have done that I would think would cause ill effects. I've even done it 5 or 6 times. And my gauge still works fine. My valve don't leak.

Does that mean everyone will have perfect results like me? Absolutly not.

Ever use a socket and wratchet for lug nuts? Thats what a lug wrench is for. Ever use pliers on a nut or bolt? Thats not their use. Ever use a flathead screwdriver as a prybar? Not their use. Ever use anything to bang something with other than a hammer? etc, etc, etc.

I must not know what I'm talking about, 'cause I've done all the above.

 

Hey Kenk, no worries man, just throw up a few thousand posts in the next few weeks and they'll think you're a genius.

"I saw a peanut stand, I Heard a rubber band, I saw a needle that winked it's eye. But I think I will have seen everything When I see an elephant fly...."

"Using tools exclusively for their intended purpose is boring and uncreative." - Confusiousness

 

The point is the damn thing turned into a flowing gusher upon being probed. I dealt with it and just wanted to pass the info along to other's on here. If you want to ignore it, that's up to you. I am not complaining or criticizing anyone. If you used a tire gauge successfully, that's fine. And if you would only use an approved fuel system guage, that's fine too.

Make of it what you will. I believe it was degraded from (1) Age (2) additional exposure to the under the hood atmosphere since the cap was missing long term. I think it is wise to have a spare on hand knowing what I now know. How to know exactly which insert came as original equipment, I have no idea. Will a standard tire valve suffice? I will find out I guess.

The schrader site even says it's the same body with a variety of interchangable inserts based upon the application.

So leave the dead horse be. I would hate for someone to report us to the ASPCA.