Severe Braking Problem
#22
With respect to spongy feel after brake fluid flush, might want to look for a leaky caliper as well. But one usually exhibits pull to one side. Leaky or defective pressure reducing valve (proportioning valve)? Smell around each wheel? Use IR thermometer to "shoot" disks, each one on same axle should be about same heat after a drive? Trying to hold back on the MC if not needed.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 09-17-2011 at 09:25 PM.
#23
Now that you mention it, here are a few other clues.....
When stopped at a light, if I put some pressure on the pedal, it will "stick" there and hold the car still when in gear. So I am thinking a bad caliper somewhere as well. Are they easy to rebuild? Or should I just send them in a cores?
Also, there is some surface rust in the sheet metal below the master cylinder. So it has me also thinking that something might be leaky in there. It could also have been the pile of wet leaves that must have been accumulating there for years...
When stopped at a light, if I put some pressure on the pedal, it will "stick" there and hold the car still when in gear. So I am thinking a bad caliper somewhere as well. Are they easy to rebuild? Or should I just send them in a cores?
Also, there is some surface rust in the sheet metal below the master cylinder. So it has me also thinking that something might be leaky in there. It could also have been the pile of wet leaves that must have been accumulating there for years...
#24
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
My rear calipers were pretty corroded when I bought my DI four years ago. I bought the ProLine calipers from Rovers North about 100 bucks each with no core charge.
Also bought new mounting bolts. They are great calipers for the price. You can trust RN to have the right part every time as they only deal in Rover items.
Also bought new mounting bolts. They are great calipers for the price. You can trust RN to have the right part every time as they only deal in Rover items.
#26
#27
Also check the Master Cylinder cap gasket. My brakes were just dandy until yesterday and then I almost had no brakes at all. Almost found out by plowing into the car ahead of me. When I was doing a check I noticed that the gasket around the cap was cracked and had completely ripped in half. I replaced it with an 80's Chrysler labaron brake booster gasket that I cut to make work...orielys didn't have a rover one. And it works again. Still a little off so I might have to bleed them and do an overhaul on them soon.
#28
#29
#30
I took a look and there was a gasket there and it appeared to be in OK condition. Perhaps I will change it out for good measure, but I am not convinced that this is the problem.
The brakes are working better after a couple of days of driving it around. Perhaps the driving had agitated some aire out of it. Another bleeding may be in order.
However, there is still some spongyness to the brakes and it seems like considerable of pressure is required to stop the vehicle in a hurry. I could not lock up the wheels (ABS disabled) if I wanted to.
Perhaps this is just the way rovers are? IDK. My gut tells me there is something else wrong. It is stable, so I think it will get me by until I need to do a brake job and then I can replace all the calipers and rotors.
The brakes are working better after a couple of days of driving it around. Perhaps the driving had agitated some aire out of it. Another bleeding may be in order.
However, there is still some spongyness to the brakes and it seems like considerable of pressure is required to stop the vehicle in a hurry. I could not lock up the wheels (ABS disabled) if I wanted to.
Perhaps this is just the way rovers are? IDK. My gut tells me there is something else wrong. It is stable, so I think it will get me by until I need to do a brake job and then I can replace all the calipers and rotors.