Yea, I went to all of the big chain auto parts stores. I even had someone tell me that there is "no such thing." Sears on-line has one with a 1/4" drive. I would sure hate to wait that that long to get it!

Probably a subject for another story..... These bearings are of the "old skool" type? The ones you can pop out with a socket and grease yourself? Man I have not dealt with those in more than 10 years.... I has one of those bearing grease tools around here somewhere.... Hope I still have it. There is a company near here that sells ALL KINDS of bearings at wholesale prices. Maybe I can get some there and just replace them all when I do the brake job.

 

See Buy Gear Wrench 1/2" Drive 12-Point Standard Socket 8 mm 80805 at Advance Auto Parts for one, my store also had deep well version.

Bearings are old skool and hefty. You grease 'em up the old fashioned way.

While good and dirty, look at doing the grease / lube for the front swivels (C/V joints). There is a tiny drain at the bottom (delicate brass), 1/2 way up another brass plug, and at the top a good sized pipe plug that is the fill point. You can use oil, or some convert to "00" grease to avoid oil leaks. Cut wheel all the way to one side so lube has a straight shot down into the cavity, and does not just pool on the top of the CV joint.

You will find write ups on this sort of thing, lists of bearing numbers, etc. in the forum. A very large socket is handy to have for the bearings, don't recall the size, something around 2 1/16, but it is much easier than a crescent wrench.

I also watched some free on-line videos of this procedure, a British guy, made it look like he could do the bearing job in just minutes.

 

Cool info... I will have to get that list of bearing numbers.

I am about to update my brake thread.....

 

**** UPDATE ***

Well I have two threads going, one about braking and one about an oil leak... I seem to have posted an update on my oil leak in my brake post

Anyway, a 12pt 8mm 1/4 drive socket cannot be found.... I guess I have to special order it. Has anyone tried 5/16 or 11/32? Anyway, I have an 8mm 12 pt socket in 3/8 drive, but it does not fit in the cut-out.

Some folks suggested that I should sinch down the the outside ones, but I think I am having problem with the inside as well.

This oil leak is SEVERE!!! When I worked on the brakes, there was a significant amount of oil build up on the bottom. Good news is that after years and years of soaking in oil, there is virtually no rust down below

Here are a few photos of what I have going on....

Oil leak pools up on the water pump as well as on top of the block, underneath the intake manifold.





A good amount of oil ON TOP of the valve cover.... Not sure how it gets there.... But its there.


Maybe its a bad gasket? This black silicone junk looks suspect to me.


Still think its valve covers? Or do I have something else going on?

 

Looks cleaner than mine. And the 8mm 12pt I bought is already necked down, and 3/8 drive. Works good. The 1/4 inch drive may be making it hard on you to find.

Rovers have designed a stealth system for contiuous application of corrosion protection, and when being chased at high speed by bandits enough dino oil comes out to slick the road and slow down the evildoers. Of course, the PC thing today is environmental recycling, it is returning the pristine pure petroleum from Prudhoe Bay to the Earth. Wonder how those big dino lizards with no fur liked living in Prudhoe Bay? No wonder they died out - they must have had Lucas thermostats....

 

Looks like maybe someone was in there possibly and tried to take care of a leak with the RTV?

I had more oil than that on top of my water pump and thought it was the valley pan gasket, even bought all new upper gasket set before I found a socket that would work. Like I said, I used the 3/8 drive from NAPA.

Do you have a bench grinder? You could take some material off the outside of your socket to enable it to fit since you are having difficulty finding a socket. I went thru quite a chase here in Pittsburgh only to get that one from NAPA. Even ordering it, only a 3/8 drive was available, but since it necks down some, I was able to get it to work with just a little finesse. I was ready to throw it on the grinder if needed.

RovahFarm has the wheel bearing lock nut socket for about 10 bucks, RN has it for 20 or so. It is good to have as it fits right on but will not allow you to use a torque wrench.

Antichrist (Tom) has posted all the info numerous times giving all the correct bearing part numbers, there is also a double lipped seal you can get if you plan to offroad it. RovahFarm also has the one-shot lube for the swivels at a great price. I used that the last change I did. Turn the wheels outboard to allow it to flow in freely.

 

hub bearings are the same inner and outer, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37 - from Tom's posts

Also - re: wet leaves, https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-32561/

 

OK, so the 3/8 drive DEEP socket works... The only one I can find is the short socket and that is a no-go. I did crank the outside bolts down with a box end wrench however. Glad to know that I do not have a SERIOUS oil leak...

What is good for me is that it helped me out on my negotiation when buying it

 

You set the market price for posh previously pampered sheetmetal -how low did you go?

 

OK.. Last update...

On a whim, I decided to hit up Lowes and I actually found a 12 pt 8mm socket in deep 3/8 drive form!!!!! YAYYYYY!!!!! I never really associate Lowes with Mechanic tools, but they seem to be pretty well made. I usually go for Craftsman tools. Sure Mac and Snap-On are better, but I have had most of my wrenches and sockets for well over 20 years.

Anyway.....

I got up on the engine and cranked away. The lipped down DEEP socket barley fit. I still think I am going to order a 1/4 drive socket and maybe change those bolts out to something a little more common.

The bolts were plenty tight. I only got a 1/4 crank on most of them. The inside/left/rear was the hardest because the throttle linkage is in the way. I only got an 1/8 crank on that. But they are PLENTY tight. Tighter than I am comfortable with.

At any rate, I have not seen any more smoke and the smell of burnt oil has been drastically reduced. I only get a slight whiff when I sit at a long stop light; I used to smell it constantly.

I will probably change the gaskets anyway.... They are cheap at $20 or so a set and an hour or so of wrenching. At least I can have the peace of mind that they have been done.