Short HD OME install and review..
#1
11-06-2010, 11:01 PM
Short HD OME install and review..
Just for those who were wondering I only had it for 1 day so far.
But it was quite simple.. Id recomend doing front together and back togegther but some people do it side by side.
I already had my sway bars removed, so Im not sure how they would come into play. I dont see them changing much.
Im only writing this for people who may think this is more than they can handle.. It took me probably 3 hours. And the tools needed are minimal.
----------
Basically all you need is..
-19mm Speed Wrench to remove shock [regular is fine, but it will take you a while]
-13mm ratchet with extensions [remove shock mount.]
-17mm speed wrench and pair of channel locks [or second 17mm wrench] to remove rear spring retainers.
-Pipe or strap wrench to hold shock in place.
-Floor jack is much easier and safer.. Desperate people can use bottle jack and bricks or wood [dangerous.]
-2 jackstands or agian you can use blocks and wood but.. dangerous.
To install springs its helpful to have a second person.
----------
To remove front:
-Lock Center differential, and or chock rear wheels, place in park and pull emergency brake
-Loosen Front Lugs. I use 1 1/8" socket
- Jack up axle. Its hard to place a large floor jack in the center of the axle due to the differential. Placing slightly to the right [close to center] is fine, one side will lift a little higher/sooner than the other.
- Place jack stands under frame
- Remove wheels and slide under vehicle for extra safety
- Remove one 19mm NUT from axle shock mount. Using pipe wrench to hold in place.
- Remove air filter box/maf sensor to access shock tower.
- Loosen 4 13mm bolts around shock tower two from engine bay two from wheel well.
- Remove shock tower along with shock up through engine bay. Try not to loose the lock washers
- Disconnect ABS wires [connector is mounted in engine bay ontop of wheel well]
- Lower floor jack/axle keep an eye on the brake lines not to over extend them but fronts shouldn't be a problem.
- Give a little tug on springs and they should come right out. Remove both sides. Shock Tower retainers should come out with springs
- Grab new springs [OME are marked for front/back passenger/rear]
- Place shock tower retainer back in position and use two nuts to hold it in place.
- Put new springs in place, lower axle as low as possible without extending brake lines and they should go in easily.
- Installation is reverse of removal.
-----------------------------------------------
To remove Rear.
- Jack up axle. Its hard to place a large floor jack in the center of the axle due to the differential. Placing slightly to the right [close to center] is fine, one side will lift a little higher/sooner than the other.
- Place jack stands under frame
- Remove wheels and slide under vehicle for extra safety
- Remove one 19mm NUT from axle shock mount. Using pipe wrench to hold in place.
- Lower rear axle untill it is hanging [rear springs take more effort]Watch brake likes for now keep a little slack
- Remove two 17mm Bolts/Nuts using 1 speedwrench and 17mm wrench or Channel Locks
- Remove spring retainer
- Remove spring with isolator and lower...part
- Place spring isolator on new spring.
TIP. I took two wood clamps
And used them to compress the spring slightly. Very slightly
- Lower axle as much as possible brake lines will get pretty tight.
- Place lower.... part back on axle
- Put spring top end in first
- I needed a friend to step on the axle to give it that much more room to get the spring in. Brake lines were VERY tight.
- Remove wood camps
- Installation is reversal of removal.
Only part I needed someones help was to align shocks while raising axle and push down rear axle to get new springs in.
Installing shocks is self explanatory
---------------------------
Drivers side rear 34 1/4" +2.5
Drivers side front 34" +2.25
Passenger Side Front 33 3/8" +1.6
Passenger Side Rear 33 1/2" +1.75
With Drivers weight front drivers side lowers 1/2 inch.
----------------------------
BEFORE
DURING
AFTER
--------------------------------
Review..
Anyone who ever said this ride was too stiff. Is wrong, and probably never experienced it. Dont bother with the medium suspension. This ride is perfect. Only thing I can see making the ride harsh is HEAVY duty shocks. I used stock shocks and honestly MIGHT replace them because I removed sway bars. If I still had them There would be no reason to. Ride is NOT bouncy, and passes the rocking test. Maybe for longer travel? I haven't maxed out the shocks yet...
Helpful Videos
2" OME INSTALL
Front End Suspension
Rear End Suspension
But it was quite simple.. Id recomend doing front together and back togegther but some people do it side by side.
I already had my sway bars removed, so Im not sure how they would come into play. I dont see them changing much.
Im only writing this for people who may think this is more than they can handle.. It took me probably 3 hours. And the tools needed are minimal.
----------
Basically all you need is..
-19mm Speed Wrench to remove shock [regular is fine, but it will take you a while]
-13mm ratchet with extensions [remove shock mount.]
-17mm speed wrench and pair of channel locks [or second 17mm wrench] to remove rear spring retainers.
-Pipe or strap wrench to hold shock in place.
-Floor jack is much easier and safer.. Desperate people can use bottle jack and bricks or wood [dangerous.]
-2 jackstands or agian you can use blocks and wood but.. dangerous.
To install springs its helpful to have a second person.
----------
To remove front:
-Lock Center differential, and or chock rear wheels, place in park and pull emergency brake
-Loosen Front Lugs. I use 1 1/8" socket
- Jack up axle. Its hard to place a large floor jack in the center of the axle due to the differential. Placing slightly to the right [close to center] is fine, one side will lift a little higher/sooner than the other.
- Place jack stands under frame
- Remove wheels and slide under vehicle for extra safety
- Remove one 19mm NUT from axle shock mount. Using pipe wrench to hold in place.
- Remove air filter box/maf sensor to access shock tower.
- Loosen 4 13mm bolts around shock tower two from engine bay two from wheel well.
- Remove shock tower along with shock up through engine bay. Try not to loose the lock washers
- Disconnect ABS wires [connector is mounted in engine bay ontop of wheel well]
- Lower floor jack/axle keep an eye on the brake lines not to over extend them but fronts shouldn't be a problem.
- Give a little tug on springs and they should come right out. Remove both sides. Shock Tower retainers should come out with springs
- Grab new springs [OME are marked for front/back passenger/rear]
- Place shock tower retainer back in position and use two nuts to hold it in place.
- Put new springs in place, lower axle as low as possible without extending brake lines and they should go in easily.
- Installation is reverse of removal.
-----------------------------------------------
To remove Rear.
- Jack up axle. Its hard to place a large floor jack in the center of the axle due to the differential. Placing slightly to the right [close to center] is fine, one side will lift a little higher/sooner than the other.
- Place jack stands under frame
- Remove wheels and slide under vehicle for extra safety
- Remove one 19mm NUT from axle shock mount. Using pipe wrench to hold in place.
- Lower rear axle untill it is hanging [rear springs take more effort]Watch brake likes for now keep a little slack
- Remove two 17mm Bolts/Nuts using 1 speedwrench and 17mm wrench or Channel Locks
- Remove spring retainer
- Remove spring with isolator and lower...part
- Place spring isolator on new spring.
TIP. I took two wood clamps
And used them to compress the spring slightly. Very slightly
- Lower axle as much as possible brake lines will get pretty tight.
- Place lower.... part back on axle
- Put spring top end in first
- I needed a friend to step on the axle to give it that much more room to get the spring in. Brake lines were VERY tight.
- Remove wood camps
- Installation is reversal of removal.
Only part I needed someones help was to align shocks while raising axle and push down rear axle to get new springs in.
Installing shocks is self explanatory
---------------------------
Drivers side rear 34 1/4" +2.5
Drivers side front 34" +2.25
Passenger Side Front 33 3/8" +1.6
Passenger Side Rear 33 1/2" +1.75
With Drivers weight front drivers side lowers 1/2 inch.
----------------------------
BEFORE
DURING
AFTER
--------------------------------
Review..
Anyone who ever said this ride was too stiff. Is wrong, and probably never experienced it. Dont bother with the medium suspension. This ride is perfect. Only thing I can see making the ride harsh is HEAVY duty shocks. I used stock shocks and honestly MIGHT replace them because I removed sway bars. If I still had them There would be no reason to. Ride is NOT bouncy, and passes the rocking test. Maybe for longer travel? I haven't maxed out the shocks yet...
Helpful Videos
2" OME INSTALL
Front End Suspension
Rear End Suspension
Last edited by Spencerfitch; 11-07-2010 at 08:40 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mr4x4 (03-25-2015)
#2
11-07-2010, 08:24 AM
Administrator
What brand of coils did you install, who's shocks?
You always use HD shocks on a Disco to help control the top heaviness. It is too bad you used factory shocks, they are the worst just under Pro-Comps, the 2 shocks of choice are OME and Bilstein.
I may be confused, are you saying since your sway bars have been removed, you might also remove your shocks, please clarify.
You always use HD shocks on a Disco to help control the top heaviness. It is too bad you used factory shocks, they are the worst just under Pro-Comps, the 2 shocks of choice are OME and Bilstein.
I may be confused, are you saying since your sway bars have been removed, you might also remove your shocks, please clarify.
#3
11-07-2010, 08:36 AM
What brand of coils did you install, who's shocks?
You always use HD shocks on a Disco to help control the top heaviness. It is too bad you used factory shocks, they are the worst just under Pro-Comps, the 2 shocks of choice are OME and Bilstein.
I may be confused, are you saying since your sway bars have been removed, you might also remove your shocks, please clarify.
You always use HD shocks on a Disco to help control the top heaviness. It is too bad you used factory shocks, they are the worst just under Pro-Comps, the 2 shocks of choice are OME and Bilstein.
I may be confused, are you saying since your sway bars have been removed, you might also remove your shocks, please clarify.
Ill get around to shocks, but I was saying I don't see them as CRITICAL if you have the sway bars still on your vehicle. I was saying I would get some shocks to help with some highway "sway" and to hush some people up.
#5
11-07-2010, 09:33 AM
I was about to clamp off the brake line and just disconnect them. I have done that before.. Simply bleed after, no issues.
#7
11-09-2010, 09:32 AM
Camel Trophy
#8
11-09-2010, 09:42 AM
I know when I installed my lift I never took the shock towers off. I just jacked the axle down far enough (i was installing new brake lines so they were removed) that I could unbolt the top and bottom of the shock itself and remove it with the spring. I never did one on the ground so that might not be possible????? Plus I was installing OME 764f an 763r that would equall about 3" lift I measured that day it only lifted about 2" a week later I measured it raised the truck about 3 1/2" im still trying to figure that one out.
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