Chunks of the floor are missing. I don't think it's anything serious. I think I can do this with sheet metal, rivets and some sort of adhesive. I'm doing the proper rust treatment-paint-herculiner as well. I bought a new fuel pump cover also. Or should I take it in to be welded? And I have the Alpines of course as well which will be fixed and bondo'd.

Last photo belongs to a member I can't remember and shows the floor out which is not the way I want to go here although would be best.

 

You can do it. Be sure to treat every surface with rust converter, rusty metal primer, etc. Wear good dust mask, this stuff goes everywhere. Sheet of diamond plate would look good...

 

Timeout on rust.

Im doing the Neapo u-joint replacement and I've isolate the problem. In the front position the front driveshaft connects to a short large cylinder that I've yet to identify. There is play between the friveshaft and this part. We cannot get the bolts off the front of the driveshaft as the turn with the wrench . I'm taking off the rear and looking for an answer on that one.

 

I had to put two wrenches on, one on each end of bolt. I think you may be able to put at "N" position, lift one tire, and rotate wheel to line up bolts, but that's just an idea. Of course, if you have four jackstands and flat concrete, you are home free. Diff lets one wheel turn while other is stopped...

Don't be under truck without supports, blocked wheels, etc. You would be less good looking with the imprint of a transfer case on your head....

 

OK. My mistake. Rear Driveshaft at "transfer gearbox transmission brake". There is play between the driveshaft flange and the connection at the drum. We need to figure out how to get the bolts off as they turn with the wrench and the other side is inside that drum. Where the shaft meets the drum, a sliver of the drum cracked off and I think we can see it inside by that shaft. We need to figure that out now. Getting serious?

 

Land Rover Discovery I Drivetrain Parts Available from RoversNorth.com

Hope this helps somewhat. The front of the front drive shaft bolts to the 4 bolt flange that is mounted ditectly to the front differential, the rear of the front drive shaft bolts to the flange on the front side of the transfer case.

Are you saying the nuts spin on the bolts or what? That short large cylinder is part of the front differential if I understand what you said. Or are you just cutting up again?

We Rednecks have a different sense of humour than most people. Just listen to Jeff Foxworthy and Larry the Cable Guy some time to see what I mean. Or the Here's your Sign Guy, good ole Bill What's His Name. But I do not include Ron White as a Redneck, he just sponges off the other three. Just another drunk Texan.

As far as that floor panel goes, it really depends on how badly corroded and weakened the panel is. I would take a hammer (sludge is good for knocking the sht out of it) and smack it a few times to see if it has any structual integrity left.

You need to go ahead and cut out the weak areas and see if the rest is strong enough to support leaving it in there. It would be a shame to do extensive repairs over a weakened floor. Yours looks worse than just surface corrosion since there are already that many holes visible.

If it does have adequate strength, then you could treat it and lay a full size piece of diamond plate over it. Small patches may cover individual holes but offer very little true support.

You do plan on keeping it for a long time don't you?

You could even put a couple of sheets of marine plywood over it. Henry Ford used wooden floorboards to begin with.

Have fun with it Bro.

 

OK. This is what I'm dealing with. Brake drum and rear driveshaft. Great write up:

www.discovery2.co.uk / Transfer Box Rear Output Seal / Handbrake Shoes

Yeah I have to think about the solution to the rust fix. I'm keeping her. First and last maybe.

 

So you are talking about the rear driveshaft?

Yes that is the Parking brake. Those bolts are pressed in from the "inside " of that brake piece.
Land Rover Discovery I Brake Parts and Kits Available from RoversNorth.com

The above pictoral does not really show the studs you refer to, but it does show the parking brake. Very little help there I am afraid.

When I replaced my rear d/s, one of those four bolts was slightly stripped at the end, so I have three of the four with the nuts on good, and the fourth one is a little buggered up.

I remember Cosmic88 telling me those studs are pressed in from the inside, he may know a trick to getting them out. Is it all four studs spinning or just 1? Did you use PB Blaster to help loosen it or did it spin from excessive force trying to get the nut off?

You may have to drill it out. Then remove the parking brake housing to put in new studs.

 

Be sure and make index marks on the rear driveshaft flange and the parking brake so you can reinstall in the same orientation it was in to maintain the balance of the driveshaft.

Good pics in that writeup you found. I have yet to have to get inside the parking brake but I saved that writeup for when the time comes.

 

Yeah I read about those marks that I was supposed to make. I don't think he did that. Maybe. I'll check.

We got the drum off. The bolts inside were turning instead of being stopped by the head of the hex bolt itself. We got two off with work arounds but two wouldn't budge so we cut them off with my grinder nice and clean. Inside we can remove the large circlip and replace the bolts and nuts with new ones which is what we were doing. The noise was diagnosed to this piece. The u-joints rattle as well so the new ones and serviced handbrake should make a huge difference down there.

I'm going to give the rust a go myself. I need to thnk about it a little. Thanks for the ideas.