Something is broke...
#21
02-11-2012, 06:39 AM
Drifting
Thanks for the information. It will stay parked. There is a junk yard (Ackerman's in Prosperity, SC) around nine miles away that reports having three Discoverys in it (1996, and two 1997), but they have not returned a quote. Pullapart seems like the way to go. The only reason I didn't immediately go to Pullapart is my lack of technical knowledge necessary to remove the shaft and my fear of working under a vehicle without jack stands, even if they have the welded rim stands.
Has a 6 month warranty for $99:
FRONT DRIVE SHAFT Land Rover Discovery Defender 94 - 99 | eBay
Has a 6 month warranty for $99:
FRONT DRIVE SHAFT Land Rover Discovery Defender 94 - 99 | eBay
U joints are like $12 each at parts store. If you drive over to Augusta, the Pull-A-Part salvage yard has two 95 Disco's, and a used drive shaft is $15. Did not see one on their Columbia inventory. Their Charlotte yard lists two 97 Discos. see Find the Right Car, Right Now. - Pull-A-Part U-pull-da-partz salvage yards are a cheap as it comes, you takes your chances. Because vehicles are moved with fork lifts, shafts can be bent. Look for one with no marks on it.
Driving without one shaft is a limp home if you have to do it situation, not a good idea for long term use, can tear up other things.
Driving without one shaft is a limp home if you have to do it situation, not a good idea for long term use, can tear up other things.
#22
02-12-2012, 07:22 PM
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
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#23
02-12-2012, 08:07 PM
TReK
If you are going to remove the nuts and bolts holding the driveshaft in place do yourself a huge favor, take a small propane torch with you. On the front end where the driveshaft meets the differential heat the hell out of the nylock nuts one at a time. Heat them until you see the nylon actually catch fire and melt. Then take two 9/16th wrenches, one open and one boxed end six point (do not use a12 point wrench because there's too great a likelihood you'll strip the bolt head). Use the six point on the bolt head and the open wrench on the nut (you won't be able to get a boxed end wrench over the nut, there's not enough room). With the heat, it won't take a lot of force to loosen these nuts and bolts.
On the transfer case end, you can use an impact wrench if you have access to electricity or a battery charged tool. All you have to do is move the shaft around until you can get a socket over the nylock nut. You can usually do this at between 10-2 o'clock.
There's never a need for cutting bolts or other nonsense like that. Approach the job with a little advanced thought and it will proceed smoothly.
Always start at the differential end when removing a driveshaft. Access us always easier there and USE HEAT. Physics is your friend let it help you.
On the transfer case end, you can use an impact wrench if you have access to electricity or a battery charged tool. All you have to do is move the shaft around until you can get a socket over the nylock nut. You can usually do this at between 10-2 o'clock.
There's never a need for cutting bolts or other nonsense like that. Approach the job with a little advanced thought and it will proceed smoothly.
Always start at the differential end when removing a driveshaft. Access us always easier there and USE HEAT. Physics is your friend let it help you.
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