re: I'm not really mechanically inclined

Nothing like a potential 8 - 9 Ben Franklins going up the chimmney to motivate some fast self-paced learning...
see Propshaft Rebuild - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum for a great write up and pictures, the D2 is more complex, but very similar in parts and techniques. You may want to take parts to a shop and pay a few bucks for them to do the U-joints, if you don't have a vise. Does not work so good on the patio with two hammers...

BTW, buy hand cleaner by the gallon.

Now that you have the shaft out, you can use the CDL in lock and drive wth just the rear, if this is your only ride.

 

Hey guys, I've got a new front drive shaft to put in... how do I replace the bolts that are on the transfer case side? Do I have to take the front output of the transfer case apart in order to put new bolts in??? I'm working on it now, please help... Thanks

 

Put the transfer case in neutral. Chock the rear wheels.
Spin the driveshaft by hand to get to the nuts and bolts.
No need to remove anything other than the nuts and bolts.

 

Does it have a ring that retains the bolts to the flange like on a D2?

Yes, in that case, you are supposed to remove the output to replace the bolts. Sounds like a PAIN.

Some of the D2 guys cut the bolts off, and then when putting them back together, they reverse them. Personally, my bolts were fine, and in that case, you only need new nylock nuts.

 

Yeah, cutting them will be the best thing I can do... I didn't even think of that! Thanks guys

 

You got a used shaft I assume, did you replace the existing u-joint before installing?

Did you grease it good and check it out?

I have replaced my rear drive shaft with an updated one that did away with the rotoflex because that flange had broken and a used rear shaft was the cheaper alternative. Changing the rear flange was a real bear of a job, but I persisted.

I have never really even looked at the front one other than to grease the u joints.

Let us know how it worked out.

I am curious about what you had to cut, as Spike said, putting the transfer case in Nuetral allows rotation of the shaft so you can do the two on the bottom and then rotate the shaft to access the other two.

 

I wanted to follow up. I believe my front drive shaft/prop shaft is about to fail. When releasing the gas while traveling at speed there is vibration that continues even with the vehicle in neutral. I have also turned the engine off during the same test with no difference. The money is not available to fix it, so I wanted to pull the shaft out for a month or so.

Is there any potential for damage by using only rear wheel drive for < 2000 miles? Do I need to take any precautions on the termination points to avoid rust or other damage? Lastly, would it be a better path to park the vehicle until I can fund the replacement?

 

Yes your best option would be to park it until the funds are available to fix it properly.
No there is no need to do anything to prevent rust or the like on anything.

 

U joints are like $12 each at parts store. If you drive over to Augusta, the Pull-A-Part salvage yard has two 95 Disco's, and a used drive shaft is $15. Did not see one on their Columbia inventory. Their Charlotte yard lists two 97 Discos. see Find the Right Car, Right Now. - Pull-A-Part U-pull-da-partz salvage yards are a cheap as it comes, you takes your chances. Because vehicles are moved with fork lifts, shafts can be bent. Look for one with no marks on it.

Driving without one shaft is a limp home if you have to do it situation, not a good idea for long term use, can tear up other things.

 

You can rebuild a propshaft with nothing more than a 9/16 wrench, a few new u-joints, pliers, 18mm socket, and a rubber hammer to beat the ever living crap out of them. Only thing I found a vice good for is beating them on.