starter bolts stripped
So the starter is dead that not the issue, yes its actually dead, tried all the tricks. However i found a new bad design on our rovers, hex head bolts on the starter. got the hex head on it, and turned, and stripped, both.
Is there a specific kind of easy out to use that works better than others.
Is there a specific kind of easy out to use that works better than others.
So the starter is dead that not the issue, yes its actually dead, tried all the tricks. However i found a new bad design on our rovers, hex head bolts on the starter. got the hex head on it, and turned, and stripped, both.
Is there a specific kind of easy out to use that works better than others.
Is there a specific kind of easy out to use that works better than others.
Pedronz
You also need to make sure there isn't any gunk in the head of the bolt that would prevent fully seating the hex.
In my experience socket head cap screws are the hardest to round, provided you do the above, and use the correct size.
In my experience socket head cap screws are the hardest to round, provided you do the above, and use the correct size.
I had to pull mine today, plus pull one from a donor vehicle, plus re-install in my Disco. 8 mm hex bolts are a PITA. Donor was stripped, so I put in a Torx bit, T-47 or T-50. Came out, I guess the Torx is slightly tapered. Re-installed with 3/8 by 16 thread bolts, regular hex head (9/16 socket). The ones that came out are 8mm allen head, with 3/8 X 16 thread. Made good use of wobble socket. 10 mm bolt that holds heat shield is hidden inside right side motor mount bracket.
I had to pull mine today, plus pull one from a donor vehicle, plus re-install in my Disco. 8 mm hex bolts are a PITA. Donor was stripped, so I put in a Torx bit, T-47 or T-50. Came out, I guess the Torx is slightly tapered. Re-installed with 3/8 by 16 thread bolts, regular hex head (9/16 socket). The ones that came out are 8mm allen head, with 3/8 X 16 thread. Made good use of wobble socket. 10 mm bolt that holds heat shield is hidden inside right side motor mount bracket.
You'll know if it is there. It covers the length of the starter, to protect it from the exhaust pipes and manifold. Imagine a long cylinder, slice in half long ways. The concave part of the shield has a spring clip that snaps on to the soleniod of the starter. The front end has a small bracket that is screwed to the upper bracket of the right side motor mount. If it is present, you can't see the starter when looking from above on the battery side of the truck.
I removed the heat sheild from mine about three years ago when I thought I had an intermittent starter problem. The problem turned out to be the starter to frame ground connection. Redoing the ground connection to the frame resolved the intermittent starting problem.
The heat sheild was so corroded and nasty that I decided not to replace it. I have not had any issues to date with the starter minus the heat shield. Just reporting my results, so that you may be aware.
If the existing fasteners are stripped, that is indicative that they were quite possibly damaged by someone not using the correct size tool, and/or not cleaning the cap socket out to ensure proper seating of the tool.
Also, since the starter is so difficult to gain good access to and the RAVE calls for a rather outlandish arrangement of extension and so forth to remove the fasteners, I opted to make a slight modification to allow for improved access and visibility of the starter mounting hardware and electrical connections.
If you remove the front passengers wheel, take a pair of aviation tin snips and carefully cut the inner fender wall vertically near the seam, you can fold the fender wall up out of your way and while sitting in the wheel well area, you have a clear view of the starter and can gain direct access to the fasteners. Douse them good with PB Blaster a few times a few hours or days of soak time and the fasteners will be much easier to remove. If they are really badly damaged, you will still have better access for trying whatever is necessary to aid in the removal process.
Good Luck.
This is my Land Rover. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My Land Rover is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My Land Rover, without me, is useless. Without my Land Rover, I am useless. I must drive my Land Rover true. I must drive straighter than any Jeep who is trying to pass me. I must pass him before he passes me. I will...
JUST A WEE BIT OBSESSED ARE WE?
The heat sheild was so corroded and nasty that I decided not to replace it. I have not had any issues to date with the starter minus the heat shield. Just reporting my results, so that you may be aware.
If the existing fasteners are stripped, that is indicative that they were quite possibly damaged by someone not using the correct size tool, and/or not cleaning the cap socket out to ensure proper seating of the tool.
Also, since the starter is so difficult to gain good access to and the RAVE calls for a rather outlandish arrangement of extension and so forth to remove the fasteners, I opted to make a slight modification to allow for improved access and visibility of the starter mounting hardware and electrical connections.
If you remove the front passengers wheel, take a pair of aviation tin snips and carefully cut the inner fender wall vertically near the seam, you can fold the fender wall up out of your way and while sitting in the wheel well area, you have a clear view of the starter and can gain direct access to the fasteners. Douse them good with PB Blaster a few times a few hours or days of soak time and the fasteners will be much easier to remove. If they are really badly damaged, you will still have better access for trying whatever is necessary to aid in the removal process.
Good Luck.
This is my Land Rover. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My Land Rover is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My Land Rover, without me, is useless. Without my Land Rover, I am useless. I must drive my Land Rover true. I must drive straighter than any Jeep who is trying to pass me. I must pass him before he passes me. I will...
JUST A WEE BIT OBSESSED ARE WE?
Have to say that with the same problem (bolt as stripped) -Autozone near me carries a set by Erwin That grips onto the exterior of the bolt, -grabbed the rounded exterior of mine. Add a few taps to seat it, and she pulled that one right out nicely.
There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My Land Rover is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My Land Rover, without me, is useless. Without my Land Rover, I am useless. I must drive my Land Rover true. I must drive straighter than any Jeep who is trying to pass me. I must pass him before he passes me. I will...
[/COLOR]JUST A WEE BIT OBSESSED ARE WE?
My Land Rover is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My Land Rover, without me, is useless. Without my Land Rover, I am useless. I must drive my Land Rover true. I must drive straighter than any Jeep who is trying to pass me. I must pass him before he passes me. I will...
[/COLOR]JUST A WEE BIT OBSESSED ARE WE?
I also used the irwin easy out trick to get mine out, allen head bolts are not meant to be used where that much torque needs to be applied and then heated and cooled so much. I picked up a brand new starter from napa for 180 and had it on in under a half hour.
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