If that large ground wire is missing you can simply add another one. Get yourself a large enough and long enough cable.

1. Clean the bolting surface and attach one end of the new ground cable.
2. Now attach the other end to the starter as it bolts onto the truck.
3. Attach some zip ties if needed to keep things tidy and from unnecessary hot spots.

 

Man. So great to see this thread still helping people ten years after I made it. Of all the things I loved about my old d1 it sure did used to eat starters. I was under it regularly jumping the starter straight from the battery, past the solenoid. So I think that’s more of an indictment on the reman units and the bad starter solenoids than the starters themselves.

 

Just removed the starter from my 200 td5 easier than I thought apart from the top bolt . The starter was playing up for a couple of weeks so I decided to replace it , I had my supplier on standby in case I needed a new 1 but found that the old problem with td5,s was the solenoid so just replaced the inners of it ie: the contacts and plunger with a kit from ebay cost around £15 and 1 hours work job done

 

what was the starter (solenoid) doing that you had to work on it?

thanks

 

when you turned the key sometimes it would start and then it would get worse and not start at all hit the starter with a hammer and it would be ok for a couple of starts then would fail again since replacing the contacts and plunger in the kit it has been great every time

 

when you say it would not start, it would not do anything, no engine turnover, as if the starter wasn't even there? That is a problem I am having, when it gets hot after driving a while, stop to get gas, run into shop for a few minutes, come back out, the Rover will not do anything when I turn the key. I have to wait 15 minutes or so for it to cool down then it cranks right up.

Thanks David

John

 

yes had this several times very embarrassing to have to get the jack out to get under with the hammer
make sure you get the right kit for the td5 2.5 if that is what you have eBay # 313260323248 just under £10 here in the uk
What I found was the plunger contact ring was pitted and the positive terminal in the solenoid was very burnt which meant that when you turned the key the plunger pulled towards engaging but was pull off square thus sticking .Apparently the solenoid fault is common ? taking into consideration that the motor draws 2 kw when engaging so I have been told . since doing this repair I have had no problems with starting at all it is also cheaper than replacing the whole starter
Good luck

 

question: You have to remove the starter to take the solenoid apart? Opposite from the front of the solenoid (where the ignition wire, battery cable attaches) is there screws the hold the solenoid together? I was out today trying to get the starter out, got the heat shield out but the bottom hex screw would not budge, so I heated it up, finally it cracked, not stripped, cracked. So the starter is going to be in there, unless I can get vice grips on the head of that bolt.

Anyone have any idea how to get that bolt out? Can't believe how tight it is.

 

finally got the hex/Allen bolt out, used a Dremel tool to shape the head of the bolt from round to a 6 point as much as possible. It's a tight fit , cannot get vice grips or anything in there. Anyway, I took the closet size impact socket on a 1/2" extension, long enough to get in front of the pumpkin, and beat it on to the bolt, it held on, and strong armed it with the ratchet to get it to free up. Installed a whole new starter , works like a champ. Hopefully that will take care of my no start/no turnover when hot.

 

Show yourself some love and replace those allen head bolts with a hex head bolt.