Straight Pipes? Yes? or No?
If you actually crawled under a Ford or Chevy and almost every other car and looked at the "dual" exhaust, it is just dual from the muffler to the rear, not a actual dual exhaust.
This is factory dual exhaust I am talking about not one installed and custom made by a local muffler shop.
Most cars do not have room to run 2 sets of exhaust pipe from the engine back.
This is factory dual exhaust I am talking about not one installed and custom made by a local muffler shop.
Most cars do not have room to run 2 sets of exhaust pipe from the engine back.
-It may be a little louder, the mufflers are still in the system so I wouldn't call it "obnoxiously" loud but that's for individuals to decide.
-ALL combustion engines respond well to straight pipes. Mufflers do NOT serve more purpose than muffling, hence their name.
-BACK-PRESSURE is BAD. Back pressure is NOT a good thing, you do not want ANY back-pressure in an exhaust system, ever. This is an old myth. What you do want is delta pressure timed in waves to minimize back pressure at particular intervals. Because the exhaust must flow, it must have back pressure, that's a given. So to make the best of it, engineers have figured out that they can time the exhaust pressure wave pulses to occur when the cylinder is not exposed to them. Instead they time the minimal pressure timings to coincide with the engine exhaust valves being open. This in turn is effectively "sucking" the exhaust air from the combustion chamber which results in more volumetric efficiency which means more hp and better mpg. So the length and diameter will effect the hp/tq numbers of the engine and they can be modified to modify the power band of the engine. Turbocharged engines benefit VERY little because the turbo itself blocks out the pressure waves thus, turbo exhausts are typically short and large in diameter to help with a pressure differential seen at the turbo so count turbo's out of this whole law. Everything else applies here. Removing CATs from your car WILL absolutely add hp and increase mpg so long as the 02 sensors if equipped are tricked properly. Sometimes the "help me" brand spark plug defoulers found at autozone/oriellys will solve this, google those along with "cat delete" in the same search and you'll find plenty on it.
Removing cats will cause your vehicle to smoke more and smell worse, it's not something I recommend to a regular street vehicle honestly. If you're turbo or you're needing every last hp on a track, I get it, get yourself a "test pipe" and trick the sensors or flash the ECU etc as needed to keep it otherwise running correctly, otherwise your hp and mpg savings won't be had in many cases.
I hope this is helpful to other folks.
-Greg
Eric-How pleased are you with the cat delete? CEL glowing in your face of course?
GRover-with no back pressure you will burn out the exhaust valves and gain zero power, you might even loose power as these engines were tuned with the stock exhaust in mind.
A little better flow wont hurt, but alot more will.
Keep in mind that is your muffler shop will not weld in straight pipe in place of the cats you can remove the y-pipe, take it in and tell them it is for a trail rig you are building.
Then take your old cats to the scrap yard, they fetch about $80 each.
GRover-with no back pressure you will burn out the exhaust valves and gain zero power, you might even loose power as these engines were tuned with the stock exhaust in mind.
A little better flow wont hurt, but alot more will.
Keep in mind that is your muffler shop will not weld in straight pipe in place of the cats you can remove the y-pipe, take it in and tell them it is for a trail rig you are building.
Then take your old cats to the scrap yard, they fetch about $80 each.
Somebody needs to try these and let me know how they work.
Universal Sensor Heater Simulator Oxygen O2 Spacer OBDII sim M18 X 1.5 | eBay
Universal Sensor Heater Simulator Oxygen O2 Spacer OBDII sim M18 X 1.5 | eBay
They work by spacing the 02 sensor out of the exhaust stream a little ways, effectively tricking the sensor into sending the right signal.
From a physics point of view, I'm trying to get my head wapped around this "less pressure equals more heat" thing (burning exhaust valves)... In the normal world more pressure yields more heat, while less pressure yields a heat reduction...
Running less "back pressure" used to be a big issue with 2 stroke engines because it effected the intake portion of the stroke... But, with 4 strokes other than the very short overlap at the end of the exhaust stroke, the intake and exhaust are separate and isolated from each other... I would think if one were to get the engine management computor happy (the O2 sensor issue) that running straight exhaust would be an advantage... But then again, maybe all those dirt trackers and monster truck folks have no clue of what they are doing (headers only)...
Running less "back pressure" used to be a big issue with 2 stroke engines because it effected the intake portion of the stroke... But, with 4 strokes other than the very short overlap at the end of the exhaust stroke, the intake and exhaust are separate and isolated from each other... I would think if one were to get the engine management computor happy (the O2 sensor issue) that running straight exhaust would be an advantage... But then again, maybe all those dirt trackers and monster truck folks have no clue of what they are doing (headers only)...
Actually, removing back-pressure will LOWER exhaust temps so long as it's done while maintaining exhaust note timing.
Running less back pressure is good for 2-strokes for the same reason, in fact, they count even more on delta pressure tuning than 4-strokes. You're on track with your logic, just need to be fed proper info. The dirt trackers knew this, I know a few of the old famous ones. The monster truck motor builders know this very well too but they've other things in mind.
It really depends on the application, high displacement/high horsepower engines often like open exhaust. A blown injected 526 Hemi (common in Monster trucks) is a different beast than a bone stock pig of a 4.0 v8 that we have in our Rovers. The only thing those engines have in common is that they are engines. Those race specific powerplants flow so much that exhaust often just kills them hence the open headers. These Rover engines (and most small displacement engines) need backpressure to perform efficiently and also to make torque and hp, lose the mufflers you lose their scavenging ability. The exhaust valve thing is old science and can be debated, what cant though is the almost certainty that straight pipes on this type of motor will probably kill it power wise and cause it to run like poop.
Trust me, my daily driver street car is making 786whp from a Honda 2 liter 4cyl and I could easily make a few hundred more if I cared to.
ill qualify what i said earlier by adding that you can count on not making anymore power without any modifications to the ECU.
whether it "feels" faster afterward, it wont be.
one could also argue that there would be little to gain even if you could "tune" the ECU afterward, but thats beside the point....
whether it "feels" faster afterward, it wont be.
one could also argue that there would be little to gain even if you could "tune" the ECU afterward, but thats beside the point....
Yes and it'll do so, thus it's an effective upgrade in this respect. HOWEVER, the ECU has it's fuel offset limits built in. It will do it's best to maintain stoich at all times but in certain ambient conditions it may lack the ability to supply fuel needed to avoid a lean condition, though I expect it would still be within safe limits in most all vehicles because we're talking just a few hp.


