Ive had problems starting this beast since I got even after I did an engine swap. Sometimes it started perfectly but most times it would turn over but seemed like it wasn't sparking. I changed motor cuz of blown gaskets (btw it's not a good idea to use too much gasoline antifreeze it eats gaskets- I used it thinking starting issue was a fuel problem this stupid idea cost me big time)
Now it still starts hard. As usual it sometimes starts perfectly. It turns over 5-10 seconds before firing up. I also have an issue with my horn (it doesn't work. I think it's bcuz it's not connected-i see a disconnected big black wire coming form the area of the horn) oh ya btw it starts better if I wait about 25-30seconds after turn key till fuel pump works. Been always out in the back woods I really don't want to find out hard way again in harming this mountain tamer. It's the best 4x4 I've owned. Previously yj wangler. Pathfinder. Grand Cherokee & Cherokee.
Thx in advance for any advice or replies. Already I have learned so much from all responses on this site. & I don't feel so alone in my obsession towards my rover.

 

Turn on the key and letting the pump build up pressure may mean weak pump, clogged filter. Look along the fuel rail for a test valve, a tire gauge can test it, neeeds to be 32-34 PSI.

Try connecting the black wire to a metal bolt, the horns use a black wire for ground.

 

Could also be an injector that lets the pressure leak down when sitting.

 

Ok I'll give the rail a test & see what the psi is.
As for the big black wire..could I hook it up straight to the negative post cuz it looks like a ground wire much like the one that comes from the starter?

 

Rove normally uses black for ground wires. If it is big like a battery lead, would be interesting to know where other end is located. My D1 has the black battery cable sneak down beside the radiator and tie to the frame.

 

Is there a way of finding out which one is leaking or will I need to disassemble. I remember the issue with my last engine my mechanic found out that it was the oxygen sensor. Once he fixed it. At least it was able to start not normally(it would stall if it idled too long or drove slowly...I never got a chance to figure that out b4 engine swap).
I have noticed an improvement in starting & performance since I switched to premium gas. It doesn't flutter as much at idle seems to start easier to

 

You may want to look at cleaning the IACV with carb cleaner (don't move the end of it) just spray. And think about cleaning the MAF when it is cold, key not turned, and use made for MAF spray.

 

It appears to go down to my winch. I'll check it with voltmeter. I'm gonna get my electronic guy to fix my rear windows & locks if I don't get my horn fixed by then I'll get him to look at regardless I'll let y'all know how it goes.

 

y'all - put location in signature....

Rear windows are frequently burned off traces on window ECU board (under glove box). The RAVE electrical guide and circuits manuals are your friend.

 

I checked the valve with a tire gauge & @ cold no key turn it was 0 psi once I turned key it gave a reading of 10-12 psi. I plan to change my fuel filter to see if it makes a difference but seems likely I have a shot fuel pump. Since its an on going problem with two separate engines