sorry up front for those who use LRO forum as well this is a duplicate post since LRO is not what it used to be. i figure between both forums the best answer will be presented.

98' d1 200,xxxmi
see sig for work done
so I have on the way a tactical rover front d1 winch bumper, a 12.5 thousand lb winch, and a set of 245/75/16 treadwright guard dog mts. so i have the rover up for all major repairs and ready to take new accessories. but i have a few questions. my sway bars i noticed are jacked. the rear sway has bushings that are all about gone! they have been smashed in and are discentigrating, one of the ball joints on the rear sway bar is upside down and touching the axle and coil spring mount!!! so i know these should not be like this and the fronts are just as badly worn and a ball joint for the sway up front is just as screwed up touching the axle upsidedown. is r/r/ of the sway joints a pita or pretty straight forward? the sways have moved from stock location due to shift and bad bushings is there a measurment i can go by when replacing the sway bars to be sure of stock location? are quick disconnects available for the d1 sways? disclocation cones should solve my issue of rear TF 2" springs unseating during flex?

steering I had bent my track rod last year and repaced it with a junkyeard spare. but now i have one i got from pt schram its a defender bar with no steering stabilizer several have reccomened the stabilizer delete your .2 cents? but during the bending of the bar though there was signifigant amout of trauma that caused my steering wheel to no longer be straight when it should be. straight while driving is actually offset to the right a little(at the steering wheel).(what the hell did i do??? how can i correct this? along with that my steering is "loose" maybe realted to sway bars and bad alignment? or does my box need centering? everything steering wise was great before that big hit and now i cant get it right. i hope that while doing sways and new track rod to help improve this and have alignment done since its obviously wacked out. will this help or should i look into swivel pin work? what i mean by loose is when i turn the steering wheel it takes a quarter-half inch turn for it to "catch" for lack of a better word or engage to where its actually turning the road wheels. any ideas on my steering issues guysits had me stuck for almost 6 months now with little use for the rover lately trying to keep it off the road till all these things are completed and make rover ready fror april meet. sorry for the long post but been out a while and could really use some other minds on this subject. thanks guys and gals

 

Try steering box adjust.

The damper has one main purpose in life, and that is to protect your thumbs and wrists when you hit something unseen at speed. A brand new one can mask certain worn suspension problems, but not for long. You can drive truck without damper.

 

I also have a TR front bumper and TF medium 2" kit. I'd remove the sway bars to greatly simplify the suspension, keep them from binding, and to save cash. I'd spend the money on the Expedition Exchange coil spring retainers, not cones. This will help protect your shocks as well.

As for the steering, I'd check the alignment and check the steering shaft for damage. I'd then remove the wheel and re-center it.

 

True, though if you're driving off-road you shouldn't have your thumbs inside the steering wheel.

For the OP. You can remove the anti-roll bars for now, just drive accordingly (I haven't had them on my '95 disco in 12 years).
Make sure all 4 of your your steering linkage ball joints (tie-rod ends) are in good shape and then get an alignment done. Your steering wheel can then be removed and adjusted so it's straight, if needed.
Remove the steering damper and drive it and see how the steering is. Repair/service as needed.
If you off-road I suggest relocating the damper to in front of the axle, up out of the way.

Use capitalization and paragraphs when you post. It makes it a lot easier to follow what you're saying/asking

 

They pretty much covered it.

Personally I don't think the EE retainers are worth the cash. Its a nice site but I can't afford to shop there. Not for a few pieces of steel anyways.

I like cones and really don't think there's much issue if any of breaking shocks. But that's a whole different debate.

 

Thats what limit straps are for!

I have a steering dampener relocation set up I'm looking to get rid of. Its 1/4" steel and real sturdy. It'll move the dampener up out of the way like on the defenders. PM me if interested.

 

My apologies Tom on the sentence and structure and grammar I was at work trying to make quick work of typing while I had some time.

No broken thumbs are not cool and should never be in the wheel at any time coming from a paramedic seen lots of displaced and snapped thumbs from on road accidents that way!

And I thought that was the only use for the dampner.
For now I will delete the piece and if steering is fine on and off road will keep delete. If I change it CUPgt ill contact you.

Since this rover still sees a lot of road time with 3 kids(1-2-5)I'm hesitant to remove the sways completely, I figured quick disconnects would give me the opportunity to quickly trail mod the truck. Is there a consensus on the adeo fab quick connects?

When dealing with only 2" lift and 245/75/16 tires, cones should not have that Much increased chance to damage shocks should they? Never heard of damage caused by cones should I know something there?

Eric, do you like your TR bumper does it sit as high as advertised and increase clearance and approach angle up front? What winch have you mounted on it?

And post ball joint and track bar swap I will see of steering wheel needs adjustment still. Is steering wheel removal and repair a pita or straight forward? I've seen it on rave but have not looked in detail.

Buzz I looked into steering box centering and such. Which way would be best to adjust the steering wheel? Steer wheel removal and straightening or box adjustment? Everyone's .2 cents?

Thanks guys no other rover enthusiasts in the the area besides dealer guys and they are always like " bring it by the shop we got it" and I just lmao ha yea for 2000$+ I'm sure suspension would be right. Thanks again for your replys and I hope this post has better structure.

 

Just get the relocation kit from CUpgt and move the damper to the track rod.
AedoFab is no longer around. You can make quick disconnects yourself.
-8, Ball Joint Bushings (part # 552819 ) from Rovahfarm.com
-4, 5/8"x3" Adjustable clevis pins from your hardware store.
-8, 5/8" washers
-4, Hairpin Cotter pins
-1', length of steel tube from hardware store. The clvis pin needs to slide through the tube.

I used to make and sell some of these quick disconnect kits but its not really worth it to make them, or even use them.
People think "I'm going to die if I remove the swaybars", but you won't. In fact Range Rover Classics didn't come with swaybars at all.

 

Actually Brett, most of the Range Rover Classics came with sway bars only the first few years in the states and the Hunter edition came without them.

 

Why are people worried about "topping" shocks out? Stock trucks don't come with limiting straps? Maybe if you're desert racing and overheating your shocks and ramping..