Sway bar disconnects or just no sway bars???
#11
Try the disconnects out and see if you like them. I used to run a set but got tired of bungees breaking. I finally just took the sways off for good. Never looked back. I run RTE 2" HD springs. You should be fine with the TF 2' HD springs.
To the OP. I wouldn't recommend removing the sways on the tired original springs. Even running no sways on new light duty springs might not be good. Make some disconnects. Drive around town and highway with them disconnected. If it sucks, reconnect them. If you can handle it, remove the sways.
#12
Who sells rear sway bar QD's for D2's?
I have the SlickRock QD's in the front.
#13
#14
Since I already have QD's on the front, I will try to remove the rear and see how it feels like that I guess. Mine is not exactly light. I have all RTE gear including front and rear bumpers, front and rear skids, rock sliders with nerfs, and front and rear diff guards. The winch is also pretty heavy (Mile Marker V12), but I changed the cable up for the Amsteel Blue synthetic with a Thimble from Viking, so that lightens it a lot. Good news is that most of that heavy gear is below the stock center of gravity so I would think it wouldn't affect the sway bar issue as much.
#15
Since I already have QD's on the front, I will try to remove the rear and see how it feels like that I guess. Mine is not exactly light. I have all RTE gear including front and rear bumpers, front and rear skids, rock sliders with nerfs, and front and rear diff guards. The winch is also pretty heavy (Mile Marker V12), but I changed the cable up for the Amsteel Blue synthetic with a Thimble from Viking, so that lightens it a lot. Good news is that most of that heavy gear is below the stock center of gravity so I would think it wouldn't affect the sway bar issue as much.
#17
You should leave the sway bars on. Your suspension does not have enough travel to be limited by the sway bars so it's pointless to lose the on road handling for no additional performance off road.
#19
#20